Quote:
Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner
you can do it that way, but you're supposed to charge by weight....
Printable View
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner
you can do it that way, but you're supposed to charge by weight....
There is a guy around here who uses the engine vacuum instead of a pump:oQuote:
Originally Posted by superquag
And then fills them up with ...you guessed it,hychill.
Seems to go fine,but something i wouldn't advise any one to do:(
Kev,just top it up with R12,i know where there is some,that is after you give it the mandatory leak check:angel:
As for the guys rubbishing the efficiency of 134a,auto systems that are designed for it,D2/3/4 come to mind,are fantastic.
Where the problem exists(in auto air) is using it in systems that were never designed for it.Small condensers were the main issue.
Using it in medium temp refrigeration it is as good/efficient as R12,with lower discharge temperatures.
But the weight needed would be unknown,so another method would be used.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
thats why we have refigeration technicians and look up tables...
Its like asking me something at work...
do you want the answer to reflect
what you want to be done about it, what I want to do about it, what the book says I should do about it or what the relevant standards say I should do about it.
Its a very very rare day when any 2 of them achieve the same result.
After I have charged the system and it is working satisfactory I will know the weight of the refrigerant:D I was thinking pressures as a starting point as I think calculating the weight would be just as hit and miss:(
Thanks Noel
nahh if all your hardware is original spec and you have the original charge weight stickered onto the system then you just need a look up..
heres the marketing blurb for your chosen gas, but helpfully they have all the real techy data in tact at the end. (including how to do the charge by weight and by volume....
the very short version, there are some marketing blurb errors in their advertising "how goods this ****" phase...
its a lighter gas (lower density) its going to flow around the system at a fantastic rate so,
If your compressor isnt 100% (leaking valves/ports) or your TX valve is sticking open preventing pressure build up in the condesnor and receiver
you're going to notice the hychil wont cool the car as well (Same goes for low engine speeds)
you'll also notice the hycill will be less effective more quickly if you have a minor leak (made up exaggerated numbers for example only here) of you loose 50% of the hychil you might lose up to 70% of the cooling capacity whereas the R134 will still be running around the 75% mark...
oh just as by the by...
Hit and miss is a type of governor...
Tradesmen use fact, experience and intuition.
Not quite so simple Dave the evap unit is about 30000 btu capacity there is about 9 meters of piping and a decent filter dryer.Thanks for the link very helpfull .With the pressures suggested and frosting on the suction all should be cool:cool:
Thanks Noel
that leaves me with a question....
if the system was working didnt they either
a, work out what the base charge should have been then measure it in and spec it + or minus
b, weigh it as it went in then record the final charge?
when they did it all the first time?
This is the first timeQuote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Noel
ahh so its a new system about to be comissioned....
(heres the bit where I might mention something about just vaccing it down, using a synthetic 0-5wt engine oil in the compressor then hook the suction side up to your BBQ bottle....... but that wouldnt be professional at all)