Just one more addition, I always engage it with my LT95 when towing on dirt, all inputs such as engine braking etc etc are enhanced and the added sureness with almost 3ton hanging off the hitch gives me a fuzzy feeling.
JC
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Just one more addition, I always engage it with my LT95 when towing on dirt, all inputs such as engine braking etc etc are enhanced and the added sureness with almost 3ton hanging off the hitch gives me a fuzzy feeling.
JC
Has anyone here claimed dirt has tarmac levels of traction? What matters is having enough traction for normal driving or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank
Quite simple, they are different components with the load/wear on each caused by completely different factors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tank
You can blow a clutch without hurting a diff, you can also blow a diff (take your pick which one) without hurting a clutch. There is no relationship between CDL use and clutch life.
Q1. Yes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
Q2. Thanks for that insight,
Regards Frank.
Braking becomes 50/50 when the CDL is engaged, work it out for yourself.
doest mean traction is. what about weight over axle affecting braking...Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklearthur
Thanks Dougal,Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
Yr right, my bad. Was from memory........
The damage warning is in the second para about rolling test rigs with only two wheels turning.
Anyway, as someone who ran with the CDL locked in my very early years of RRC ownership for over 1000 k's on bitumen, engaged out of curiosity by a seven year child and the warning light not working, I can say that no lasting damage was done. Just a bit of weird tyre wear.
I only use my CDL when:
1. It is working properly and the light indicates so. (I have rebuilt more than one of these without having to drop a whole LT 95 TC to do it)
2. I might get bawwgged if I don't.
3. I am bawwgged and I forgot to engage prior.
4. I have followed rule 1.
cheers, DL
I'd believe that. I'll take a pic of the (mint :cool:) 74 plaque if someone wants to post it.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
DL
This is from the Ashcroft web site, could be useful, Bob [check out the ratio calculator]
Ratio Calculator
LT230 FAQ's
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Product Information
I am not sure if the diff lock is working correctly, how do I check it ?
To check diff lock adjustment:
Put the handbrake on,
Put the mainbox in neutral and the transfer case in high,
Jack up one front wheel,
When out of diff lock you should be able to spin the front wheel that is up in the air.
When in diff lock, the wheel should not spin,
I have checked the diff lock and it in not locking/unlocking when it should be, what can I check next ?
Usually this is due to either incorrect adjustment or wear in the linkage causing a reduced movement, take a look at the smal lever on the diff lock stud on the top of the front housing of the transfer case, when out of diff lock this lever should point straight ahead, when in diff lock this lever should be rotated clockwise and detent to the 2 o'clock position. Adjust the pivot bolt on the vertical linkage to get the throw correct. If it is in the 2 o'clock position and the diff will still not lock then try backing out the diff lock light switch, sometimes the switch plunger can stop the selector fork from sliding which stops it locking.
I have checked the adjustment but it won't come out of diff lock. Why?This is often reported after recent off roading, the centre diff is there to allow the props to turn at different speeds when cornering to stop drivetrain wind up, the speed difference is quite small and the centre diff gears are only designed to cope with these low speeds. If you are off road on snow or ice and you get wheelspin from one front wheel, what will happen is the rear prop will not be moving, the front will thus be going double speed, this means the small centre diff gears will be spinning like fury and after a matter of only a few seconds the plant gears will friction weld to the cross pins and the gears will fail etc, the result of this is that the diff will then behave as if it is locked as it in jammed with gear debris. The can happen if the driver forgets to lock the centre diff on a low traction surface or due to incorrect linkage adjustment, Please note this failure is not covered under warranty as we deem this driver error, the diff will never fail for any other reason other than excessive spinning, in which case the diff should have been locked by the driver.
What oil should I use in my LT230 ? Use a GL4 or GL5, either mineral EP80/90 or synthetic EP75W90
I have just fitted a new cross drilled input gear to my LT230 and it whines, is this normal?
Some "pattern" gears are not "crowned" during manufacture and will whine because of the edge contact this creates
The difflock on my LT230 does not engage even though the selector rod moves to the right position. Why?
Sometimes the difflock indicator switch sticks and this prevents the difflock selector mechanism moving across. Back off the switch one turn and try difflock again.
I have just fitted a rebuilt LT230 transfer box and it is locked solid, i.e. I cannot turn it, why?
Check that the bolts you used to bolt the transfer box to the main box are in the correct positions. It is possible to fit a "longer" bolt in a position which will jam the intermediate gear and prevent it rotating. There are three bolts down each side attaching the transfer box to the main box and it is the middle of the three on the right hand side that causes the problem. On earlier transfer boxes a "stud" was fitted in this position to reduce the possibility of error. Sometimes the stud is omitted on later boxes or rebuilds.
I want to change the input gear on my LT230 for a later cross drilled type, can I do this in situ or do I have to take the transfer box out?
This is only available on a suffix C or later (last number of transfer case), it cannot be changed on Suffix A or B transfer boxes. On a 1.667 or a 1.410 removal of the gear is simple, it just slides out; on a 1.222 it in necessary to rotate the intermediate gear to a position where the teeth on the middle and rear gears are in line and allow the input gear to slide through. It is not possible to change a 1.003 in situ.
My vehicle will only drive when I put the LT230 transfer case into difflock, what is the problem ?
This is likely to be an axle problem ie a broken halfshaft etc, to work out which axle it is, take it out of difflock, start the engine and try to drive, with the clutch up ask someone to look under the car and see which prop is spinning, if the rear is spinning then the problem is in the rear axle, visa versa.