Ford is 31 spline, tojo is 30, ever so slightly smaller, so just a lick of the spindle, instead of big lick
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Ford is 31 spline, tojo is 30, ever so slightly smaller, so just a lick of the spindle, instead of big lick
Was close:)
So why not get a 31-30 axle made and use jacmac flanges, surely would be better that 31-24??
Or front and rear sals:D
Because he does not want to machine spindles
There was a 30 spline conversion popular for a while, mostly in the USA as it suited longfield 30 spline cvs.
IMO it was a slight improvement in axle shaft strength to loose strength in the stub axle/spindle. They only have approx. 6-7mm wall thickness as it is. Again, IMO if you are after a reliable upgrade you need to go to the bigger shaft and bigger stub axle.
I doubt you would fit the ford 9" 31 spline through a stock stub axle, even if bored. it would just loose to much material.
Does anyone know the part number of the bearings used in the hubs when they go to a 35 spline stub/hub upgrade?
Im sure Ancient mariner is have a little chuckle reading this thread :)
The tojo stuff used a jacmac axle one side and tojo on the other in the front, you had to bore the swivel out and front spindles if using 30 spline outers (tojo CV's) or both axles jeff was machining axles to go from tojo 30 spline to rover 23 spline for stock CV's if I remember right, (but only ever fitted the tojo CV's), this was a no issue, same as boring for 30 spline on rear spindles
I was going to ask if the early spindles different dia, but I guess if they use they same old wheel bearings as most coil LR then, no, the oustide dia will be the same?
I just googled the F9 31 spline and its 1.3333" or 33.865mm So I guess you are only boring about 1 - 1.3mm wich would be half of that on wall thckness.
Again, I take it you had no problems in this area?
Yeah i need specifics for the breakages, and we dont even know if the truhi9 or 9 will fit it the front pumkin/propshaft clearance to LSA without reducing travel as there is very little clearance as is.
Agree with build right first time, however build it right is different depending on who you speak to :)
Try getting Jacmac to supply them, or supply them on a regular basis.:banghead: i think working with Ashcroft or hi tough is the go for the greater good of everyone.
Ps..LRA have built a 525hp LS3 RRC running non pegged Ashcroft gear front and rear with an ATB centre diff in the LT230 and the owner thashes the thing, and it barbecues all 4's nicely :D..hasn't broken anything yet but thats not to say he wont.