Printable View
ARP Bolts ARP | The Official Web SiteQuote:
Originally Posted by Kevin B
And not reusing the bolts - those bolts are under huge stress. For the sake of a few dollars, it's removing something that may well have weakened over the course of however many million revolutions.
I should have said ARP studs not bolts - basically studs are better than bolts as there is no turning motion on the thread in the block etc. You should not reuse bolts as they are stretch bolts and they would have already been stretched. I don't know about conrod bolts but as all the main load through the conrod is down so not a lot of load on the bolts - note they are quite small compared to the main bearing bolts. The main load on the conrod bolts is on the up stroke where are either compressing the fuel mixture or exhaust gas out. I reused mine as they the engine was low km.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin B
Thats them :).Quote:
Originally Posted by MattyGM
Ok thanks guys, I will renew them but I didn't know that and would have reused the old ones, see it pays to ask, I do however suspect this engine has had a rebuild but im unsure how long ago and as Dave said for a few buck, better safe than sorry
Engines hopefully don't need to come apart very often (hopefully!) so best chuck anything suspect and replace all fasteners, re tap threads and clean everything as much as possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin B
Yes as soon as its all stripped block is off to mate to be tested, cleaned and honed, but before that im dreading trying to get the crank pully bolt off when I get the correct socket.
3.5 doesn`t use yield bolts so they don`t have to be replacedQuote:
Originally Posted by Kevin B
So are you saying i can reuse the 10 Main bearing bolts i will remove from it as they are not "Yield Bolts" ??Quote:
Originally Posted by PLR
All 3.5 bolts are reusable if any good .Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin B
Though nothing wrong with stress exchange idea .
Mains aren`t yield on any to my knowledge , bigends are on other than 3.5
Don`t think yield is right degree may be better ?
To answer the first post in this thread That crankcase appearance is fine and not dirty etc etc. It's just as you would expect.
The main thing you chould worry about and check is whether the main caps were tight to remove, as if they are loose then the block is toast.
The con rods big ends can be line bored , as can the block.
AFAIK you can reuse the bolts.
The crank is a bit marked but can be ground undersize if the marks will not polish out. The main thing to consider with the crank is whether the thrust washers are worn, as the oversize needed on these determines the oversize needed for the bearings . Or at least it did when I last did a bottom end in 1985! It doesn't look like you checked the end play before dismantling, as manuals often need oversize thrusts but autos are usually OK for obvious reasons to do with pushing in the clutch.
Regards Philip A
thats good newsQuote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
The main caps were very easy to remove but they were not loose they had a very snug fit, if by tight you mean i needed to prize them out, i didnt.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
ok ill more than likely send them with the block when it goes to be sorted out, i may just get new bolts and keep these for spares too.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
ill send the crank off as well to have that checked, ill do some research and suss the thrush washers as well, now when you say end play, i didnt check this as i didnt know, how was this supposed to have been done?, im unsure if engine was from an auto or a manual either,Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
thanks Phillip
Kevin