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Thread: Does this look right

  1. #1
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    Does this look right

    Got the sump of my project engine, looks pretty dark and smelly, also the bigend bolts are rancidly tight and once cracked dont come out easy.

    1993 Discovery 1 3.5l
    2" Lift, Cranked HD Trailing Arms
    31" Maxxis Mudders
    Tons of Radios, Tons of Spotties
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  2. #2
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    When you say the bolts dont come out easily what exactly do you mean - once cracked they should come out of the conrod easily enough - don't just undo each bolt individually - loosen one a bit then the other a bit and back to the other etc. Most should come out of the bottom part of the conrod (not sure what it is called) but I did have two bolts that would not actually come out of the bottom part of the conrod but did no cause any issues in the rebuild process.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    ... the bottom part of the conrod (not sure what it is called)...

    Garry
    Big end

  4. #4
    sheerluck Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin B View Post
    Got the sump of my project engine, looks pretty dark and smelly, also the bigend bolts are rancidly tight and once cracked dont come out easy.......
    The bolts should be splined (if that's the right word) so they fit through the top side of the conrod without spinning. They should be quite difficult to take out.

    They are 'supposed' to be single use only as well.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattyGM View Post
    Big end
    That is the whole of the bottom end of the conrod - but the removable bit that contains the lower bearing shell of big end must have a specific name.

    You cannot actually pull the big end off the conrod.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #6
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    I meant after cracking them one side at a time then taking them out each side a bit at a time as Gary said, even when they were half way out they still would not turn by hand, right to the last thread, it became apparent why whn I got them out, there was some type of threadlock goo on them, thould there have been ?

  7. #7
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    Here is some picss of the bigend bearings and the crank, im bot taking them all off yet cause I have to source a 1-5/16 impact socket to get the crank pulley off and get the cam out as well, so im stuck for the moment.

    1993 Discovery 1 3.5l
    2" Lift, Cranked HD Trailing Arms
    31" Maxxis Mudders
    Tons of Radios, Tons of Spotties
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin B View Post
    it became apparent why whn I got them out, there was some type of threadlock goo on them, thould there have been ?
    When I put mine back in on the weekend I thread locked them as an extra precaution so I don't believe it is an issue. While I did not use ARP bolts on these I did for the mains and ARP said it is Ok to use threadlocker on them and I did.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  9. #9
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    Excuse my Noob questions here but what are ARP bolts and why cant you reuse the bolts?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    That is the whole of the bottom end of the conrod - but the removable bit that contains the lower bearing shell of big end must have a specific name.

    You cannot actually pull the big end off the conrod.
    Ah big end bearing cap.

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