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Thread: New V8 Cam Break-In Problems

  1. #1
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    New V8 Cam Break-In Problems

    This is a new engine, new carbies, new Kent cam, new bloody everything, so I've been very careful with assembly and setup so I don't have too many variables. It's in an RRC.

    So I got the thing started today and ran it up to 2000rpm, as you're supposed to. In very little time, the engine was getting up to 85c and didn't look like levelling off. Is this what happens when you run a Rover V8 at that speed while the car isn't moving?

    So, after about five minutes I shut it off and left it to cool down and sure enough, the water level, (I'm using distilled water for this stage), was well down. Okay, added some more, ran it for another five minutes or so, and the same thing again. Added yet more, and it got hot again and is cooling down again now.

    Let's see: new composite head gaskets, ARP studs, new water pump and hoses, engine oil level hasn't changed so the water isn't going there, and not out the tailpipe. I'll check it later and see where the level is.

    And when I bring it down to a fast idle, there's the gauge, reading 10psi. It's a new gauge, and new oil pump, and the oil is Penrite running-in 15w-40.

    Now where am I going wrong with this?
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  2. #2
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    New V8 Cam Break-In Problems

    Hi Davo,

    I know that rover engines don't have a bleeder for air and so they can get an airlock in system.

    I've heard that some owners Jack up the front of vehicle and carefully fill water into engine, leave it overnight to try any work any air bubbles out of system and then lower vehicle before starting ..... others squeeze top hose to push / pump water around the engine to get air out of system filling it with water via the bung on the radiator.

    Also not sure if its the same with a new engine and new oil pump, but most repair manuals advise if you changing gears or servicing existing oil pump to fill it chockers with vasaline to allow the oil pump to prime itself ....

    Hope it all goes OK for you as I've been following your posts with interest.

    Cheers

    Baggy

  3. #3
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Oh dear, wait until you see the Rangie rebuild thread I'll do once it's on the road!

    Yup, these things take a while to get the air out, but it seems full now. I'm going to run it again in a minute and see what happens. The oil pump is all new and to specs and I did the whole Vaseline business, so maybe it's the gauge, maybe the bypass valve, maybe the thinner oil. Once I can idle it, I'll see what happens. Bloody annoying, though.
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  4. #4
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    Done this a couple of times. What you're doing is fine. Just don't let it idle. If you've kept a tally on how much water you've added you should be able to judge when it's almost full. The temp is as expected...up to 93-95 deg is OK...you need the thermostat to open so that the water can circulate and get rid of the airlocks. Shutting it down straight away is OK to check water level ...then start again and keep it at 2000 rpm for 20 mins or so. Once it's had 20-25 mins total time at 2000 rpm and you are sure there are no leaks and the water level is stable, take it for a run

    Very interested to hear of your experience with the Kent cam
    MY99 RR P38 HSE 4.6 (Thor) gone (to Tasmania)
    2020 Subaru Impreza S ('SWMBO's Express' )
    2023 Ineos Grenadier Trialmaster (diesel)

  5. #5
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Well, I learned today that you don't run these things for the full 20 minutes. You certainly do need to turn them off after five minutes, cool down, top up cooling system, and again and again. So I got the full 20 minutes in 5-minute stages and the water level didn't drop in the end. It was also 40c today and maybe not the best conditions to sit there with your new engine at 2000rpm.

    I'll dump the water and put some coolant in, change the oil filter and see how we go tomorrow. And synchronise the carbies, get it to idle, la la la.

    Oh, and take it for a run after I replace the heater, floor, driveshafts, seats . . .

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    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  6. #6
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    New V8 Cam Break in Problem

    ....... and the steering wheel

    But she will be a sweet ride and worth all the invested time and money you have put in her.

    Interesting photo ......what year is she, looks like an early 4 door (83) but the position of guages suggest middle to late 70's vehicle.

    Cheers

    Baggy

  7. #7
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Very good - 1983 4-door it is indeed. (But with 2-door seats that don't tilt. That weird factory back then.) It's got aircon, hence the gauges down low, and as part of this job I replaced the Torqueflyte with a new LT95. It's supposed to be our family 4wd, hence all the work, especially to make it reliable while living up here. It was either this, or, for about the same money, a Prado, which isn't even worth discussing. Previous to this rebuild, I was very impressed by the way this thing handled, and with that legendary ride as well. (But of course - I'm used to a Series Landie!) With all the soundproofing, this should be very nice.

    And one day I realised that I'm not exactly going to get another chance later on to have one of these in great nick, either!
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

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    Yes, it is OK to do the 20minutes in stages, as long as it doesn't idle or have prolonged cranking - I found out the hard way The second time around I did 2500rpm for 30 minutes to be sure.

    I find with my Disco that it takes at least a week of checking the coolant each morning and topping up as necessary, before the system is full. If you run the heater when it first gets going, that helps to get some of the air out,

    Cheers Charlie

  9. #9
    Davo is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    Yes, it is OK to do the 20minutes in stages, as long as it doesn't idle or have prolonged cranking - I found out the hard way The second time around I did 2500rpm for 30 minutes to be sure.

    I find with my Disco that it takes at least a week of checking the coolant each morning and topping up as necessary, before the system is full. If you run the heater when it first gets going, that helps to get some of the air out,

    Cheers Charlie
    I had a bit of cranking when it wouldn't start after a problem, which included a new rotor falling to bits, (it must have been a Lucas knock-off), and then I flooded it, (which is easy to do with these engines, it seems), so I left it overnight. The next day it started right up. So, who knows?
    At any given point in time, somewhere in the world someone is working on a Land-Rover.

  10. #10
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    I cranked mine for ages trying to get the oil pressure up, which is probably when I did the damage. In the end I just started it and the oil light went out, but about 5000km later it started to play up.

    My recommendation for anyone doing this to any engine without roller-lifters, is to know that the rotten thing will start - if at all possible. For example don't fit the new ignition system; or ECU until the new cam is run-in. The second time around, I filled the oil filter with oil and squirted a can-full in, where the oil sender screws in. It still took a few seconds for the light to go out.

    I never had that problem with my 3500, which had the pump packed with vaseline and the lifters not primed. I noticed that Crane Cams recommend that the lifters not be primed as well, as the maximum load on the lobes is at cranking speed because of the dwell-time. Leaving the lifters unprimed, reduces the initial load on the lobes,

    Cheers Charlie

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