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Thread: V8 crank reliability and main shells

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    V8 crank reliability and main shells

    It seems as though I'm going to have another rebuild on my hands. Low oil pressure light occasionally flickering and a slight knocking noise from what I think is the gudgeon pin area... but could be a main or bigend.

    I'm hoping it's just the oil pump; but, when replacing shells is a regrind of the crank generally needed?

    Also, is it possible to replace theain bearing shells whilst the motor is in the car, by rolling the top shell around the crank journal... if that makes sense.
    Just trying to get away with taking the motor out.

  2. #2
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    IVe done one or three in vehicle reshells, mainly on the series 4 pots, ford falcoon 6 pots and a holden donk in a series.

    you are supposed to send the crank out to have it ground but if you measure up the running faces of the crank and get the nearest non interference fitting bearings you can get away with it for a while, the bearings wont have a long life but they will probably last longer than if you dont do it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  3. #3
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    The crank journals need to be measured and inspected and if necessary machined or if OK just polished and used again. In my V8 rebuild all the mains were ok and just polished and the big ends were ok but one had a small gouge in it so all big ends were taken down 10 thou.

    So it depends on what you find.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
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    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  4. #4
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    Thanks heaps. Sounds like it's worth inspecting the journal faces in situ, and of all is good leave it there.

    The motor was done up in recent history before I got it ( honeing marks were still on the sleeves). The bearings sound good through the stethoscope - just a light shhhh, but there's a light slapping noise coming from the head gasket area on number 4 that's transfering down the conrod to that bigend and main area. Having just done head gaskets I know the head and valves are really good.

    I think I'll wip off the front cover, plasty guage the mains and big ends and measure the gudgeon float (if there is such a measurement) and go from there.

    Thanks heaps.

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