Maxi Drive Axle upgrade

Be careful with heavy duty CVs most of the unbreakable ones are not hardened as much as LR so they don't shatter but they wear quicker. Hilux centers are the same size as LR ones so you can use one in the front of the Defender you just need to redrill the housing and get some axles from Jack Macnemara, they are stronger then an LR unit. The CVs also fit. You can use a Hilux center in the rear and front of a a Disco again you need to redrill the housing. Cheap way of getting some more traction if you can get LSD for the rear of a Disco.

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Originally posted by VladTepes+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(VladTepes)</div><div class='quotemain'>

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Originally posted by AnthonyParra@
Note: this is from the top of my head for what it was for my range rover, also if your CVs are sh*t Maxi drive charge 1600 for a pair of AEU2522s
Hence why I went to Sam at Haultech Engineering for my bootyfield CVs (speacially heat treated and welded ring on bell for superior strength)

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<!--QuoteBegin-AnthonyParra
If you were to go a full on Maxi setup with lockers you should expect to pay around the 4500 mark aslong as you have the AUE2522 CVs, with out them your lookin more like $6100plus

Its alot of dollars, The toyota centre conversion with custom jacmac axles is far cheaper juts involve more tech work on both yours and the installed behalf [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

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2 questions then:
You mention the locker setup requires the AUE2522 CV's but you have the Haultech ones. Do the (cheaper) Haultech ones work with the maxidrive locker setup ?

Tell me more about this toyota centre conversion, I've not heard of it before but it sounds sacreligious. The main drawback I assume would be that the low ratio is lower (ie not as much reduction) as compared to the standard 3.54:1 ?[/b][/quote]

1) The AUE2522 Cvs are just heavy duty items fitted to countys and defeners. He has a rangie which are fitted with different cv's to you.
Your cv's should be fine, just look at axle upgrades.

2) The Toy centre conversion can only be done on a rover diffs ie your front. There is not a toy ratio available to suit your salsbury rear. If yo did it you would need to adapt a dana gearset to your salsbury (expensive and not worth the hassle).
IMO this is only worth doing if you are looking at the harder side of offroading and can see your self breaking stuff.

All your info can be found here -
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/...t=toyota+center

Most info there. Need some fab skills or $$ to machine certain items.

This is the best solution as it get rid of the rover stuff, but not nessecary for most people.

---> Also investigate Jack MacNamara in Melbourne, he makes good stuff which is comparable to maxi if not better in some ways.

Dave [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

In regards to the CV on my Rangie they are infact AEU2522s only Haultech (Sam Overton) has welded a ring on the outer and heat treated them to gain additional strength.

I have been pretty much guaranteed these will not break in my current setup (unlocked) and also when locked the CW&P is the first thing that will spit some teeth. Not one of Sams Bootyfield CVs has failed yet in a normal offroad rig, in competion work on some of the buggys they have broke afew, but they are running 38" rubber with low low crawl ratios and toyota centre conversions. Sams comments are he seems to think they are stronger than the longfields [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

For info on the Toy centre conversions (for anyone thats interested) head over to the Outerlimits Forum www.outerlimits4x4.com and search the Rover section for "Toy" & "Centre" you should get afair bit of info and alot of repeated shiznit from that [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

I didnt realise you would have the salisbury rear end Vlad so the toy centre conversion is gonna be abit more work [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] but still worth it if you can get a rover rear end axle on the cheap [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

Knowledgeable people spouting... knowledge.

What is the world coming to :?:

Thanks for the info. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

vlad,
my set up on the yoot is with a ten spline axle and oil fed hubs. this was original and i've been informed by people in the know that as long as i keep my bearings adjusted up, they should last "forever". the only difference is that you remove the axle seal from the axle housing inboard of the CV housing, clean out the grease from the bearings and fill the hubs with gear oil through the filler holes. oil will simply equalise within the whole axle housing. the only drawback to this is the dreaded swivel seal leaks.
i recently had to replace a snapped axle in the front of mine, i only did one side and it cost me $230. i did not upgrade the drive flange, change the short axle, C.V.s or diffs.
i wouldn't panic though, they all wear. if they snap, just unbolt the drive flanges and seal them with a plastic bag and electrical tape, take the drive shaft off, lock in the centre diff and drive home. takes a bit of time but it's better than paying for a tow. this is a pretty slim chance though as mine lasted 20yrs.
if you are only planning to do the axles and drive flanges, it's pretty time consuming, but you can do it your self. just remember that any dirt in the system will cause damage so work clean.
a workshop manual will help lots.
what is more likely to happen is that you can bend your track rod, this can cause a lot of problems when you are away, maxi drive make a whole set of stronger steering rods. this is something else i've had to do.

Great info Barney - thanks :!: [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

I haven't got much in the way of tools or skill so I get MR to do the mechanical stuff for me. They are doing up a quote for various things at the moment.

I'd be really interested in what costs (and work, and what parts required) for the maxi-drive steering components. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

vlad,
i might have got the price of the track rod mixed up with the axle, i know there was only about $100 difference, i decided to find the reciept for both but only found the track rod, the one i quoted last night was the track rod, i can't find the one for the axle.
best not quote me. i'm sure they'll look after you, just mention this forum and when they realise that over a thousand land rover owners will hear about their performance, you can bet they might have 2nd thoughts about ripping you off. :twisted:
use the power in numbers

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Originally posted by Defender200Tdi
Graeme Cooper list the Defender rear Maxidrive axle upgrade for $678.65. This is complete, axles & drive flanges. The complete rear locker setup, with axles & drive flanges is $1532.00. Being a Salisbury rear, the cost is significantly less than the Rover front.

Also drive flanges alone are listed for $127.55.

All GST inc.


Paul [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

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Have the kit from Graeme Cooper since March, so far so good, cost $665 complete axles and drive flanges and bearing oil seal(supply only... not hard to do).

One thing to note if going this route, make sure you insist on axles for the maxi drive locker. If you only get the h/duty axles, and eventualy complete and get the diff lock later, you will also have to pay for the long axle again as the maxi drive standard does not have another set of splines further along shaft to complete the set up.

Karcraft list new axles at $198 set plus new drive flanges at $60 each if yours worn. So $318 plus seals for standard against $665 for equivelant maxi drive set up.

Just been around to Triumph Rover spares (only 20 minutes away from me). I noticed they had a wrecked 300Tdi Defender (one of about 6) which has a complete disc brake salisbury rear with a Maxidrive locker and MD axles & flages fitted. The bloke reckons about $1,800 for the lot, disc to disc, with all wiring switches and a vac. tank.


Since my 200Tdi Defender only has drums on the rear it got me thinking. I know the complete MD kit is worth about $1,500 for parts only, then I'd have to install it and still be left with drum brakes. Whaddaya think? Presuming all is in good nick, does $1,800 seem a fair price for the lot?







Paul [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

I would be taking it with both hands.

They may even buy your existing further reducing costs.

Nichael.