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Thread: Motor oil for transfer and diff flush

  1. #11
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    Just back it up on one ramp under the right hand rear wheel and fill, that should get it a fair bit over full as the oil fills the left side axle tube before overflowing at the plug hole.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by chopper View Post
    Mate if you were a bit closer I'd give you a couple of litres of DIFF OIL
    Thanks for the offer anyway.

    I know when I worked on farm in WA we bought gear oil in 205L drums and 2L wouldn't be noticed but I don't have the same access to oil now.

    Just reminded me of a funny story though. Just to clarify before I start. I was only about 20 years old and pretty gullible.

    So I had a borrowed Subaru Brumby ute that was very heavy on oil before it was loaned to me. We (the owner and I) would go through over 4L of supermarket engine oil per week. Surprisingly enough, it didn't blow much smoke and didn't loose it out any leaks. It must have burned it pretty clean. Any way by the time my mate left me and the ute in WA and flew himself back home to NSW the ute would easy use 8L of oil per tank of fuel. I thought I'd save some cash so I filtered used gearbox oil from the tractors and used it as engine oil in the ute. It went well and actually started to go better, for a while, then went worst. It's didn't actually die from wearing out but gear oil doesn't contain detergent to was the carbon from the cylinders. The cylinders ended up glazing up and the carbon built up and increased pressure on the rings which increased heat until it started over heating. It ended up stranding me in Kalgoolie where I had to get it towed 400km back the Karlgarin where I put a new motor in it before returning it to the owner back in NSW.

    Happy Days

  3. #13
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    flushing.

    Joel,
    I would have all the wheels off the ground. I'm informed it's not good for the centerdiff to have big differential speed for any length of time , or just disconnect the front drive shaft. But that's bit like work to me, or borrow set of axle stands, blocks of wood, railway sleepers etc off a mate. I used to use a bock of wood cut with the chainsaw(firewood), but I think you're in Darwin firewood is probably not an option.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by simmo View Post
    Joel,
    I would have all the wheels off the ground. I'm informed it's not good for the centerdiff to have big differential speed for any length of time , or just disconnect the front drive shaft. But that's bit like work to me, or borrow set of axle stands, blocks of wood, railway sleepers etc off a mate. I used to use a bock of wood cut with the chainsaw(firewood), but I think you're in Darwin firewood is probably not an option.


    I just had a though. It has to be all wheels as traction control won't let just the rears spin.

  5. #15
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    traction control

    Dammed tricky stuff that. Not a problem on my old bus. yep I agree all the wheels have to travel together with TC. Still not so difficult to do

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by joel0407 View Post
    Should I be right with just the rear wheels off the ground and the centre diff spinning? I'll choke the front wheels.
    Have you checked the front diff oil, too? Maybe it also needs changing? I understand you don't have enough for all three.

    I'm a skeptic and am not convinced the Redline is going to be significantly better than any other quality brand EP gear oil in the diffs. Maybe use the Redline in the TC.
    Ron B.
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  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Have you checked the front diff oil, too? Maybe it also needs changing? I understand you don't have enough for all three.

    I'm a skeptic and am not convinced the Redline is going to be significantly better than any other quality brand EP gear oil in the diffs. Maybe use the Redline in the TC.
    I did the front about 5 - 6000km ago and it was fine. Partly why I hadn't been in too much of a hurry to do the rear.


    I think the heavy weight might exceed other EP oils but I think the light weight will at least equal.


    Happy Days.

  8. #18
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    This isn't working real well guys. I sort of expected it. Without any load, there is not enough friction to create any heat at all. It's just free spinning.

    I'm sitting in my disco infront of my house on axle stands doing 20km/h. My neighbours must think I've gone mad.


    I'm thinking of dropping it down and doing a couple of laps around the block just to get done temperature.

  9. #19
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    Running out of advice, but, maybe a small fire under it, carful of the rubber brake hose and abs wires . Why do you want it hot , have you ever seen how good you can clean a dirty (painted ) workshop floor by rubbing clean (cold ) oil on it , it was demonstrated by a mechanic in our workshop years ago when a Rep was trying to sell us some fancy detergent to clean the floor and he grabbed some clean oil and squirted it on the floor and rubbed it a bit with the mop and hey presto a clean patch in the middle of the filth, that Rep never did come back. I know hot oil will run out quicker but I don't think time is an issue with this one , lol.
    Do they think your mad for going nowhere in your Landy or just because you have a Landy ?

  10. #20
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    overfill trans case and diff.

    I have one of those big metal syringe things, it holds about a liter of oil . I wrap some tape around the hose and jam it in and pump. Whne I pull out the hose I put my finger over the hole and fit the plug. I used to be able to by 4 liter of cheap engine oil for about $10

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