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Thread: 87 Rangie Fuel Pump Probs...

  1. #1
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    87 Rangie Fuel Pump Probs...

    gday,

    i have a 1987 Rangie, 3.5EFI that has a dead or very near dead fuel pump - the intank sort.
    i have been advised that swapping it with a 89+ Commodore pump will be a cheap way of doing it, but it looks like a pretty hard job to do.

    on the 90's model you can get to the pump from the top through the floor, but on my model apparently you cant.
    Anyone know if there is an easy way of gettin to the pump?

    any ideas would be good.

  2. #2
    Hellspawn Guest
    Graft into the floor a sealing access hole and install later model pump ? :?

    Don't commodore fuel pumps need "feed" from the tank as they aren't suction pumps, more pressure pumps and were mounted low in the commodores for that reason ?

    Guess one option is to use a swirl pot or surge tank fed by lift pump and use a higher pressure pump from it to the motor.

    Depends on the budget and aspirations of the vehicle I guess.

  3. #3
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    apparently from VN commys on they had a intank pump as well.

    i have heard of people pulling out the rear floor and then grafting a hole, but the newer ones already had it like that.

    im guessing that its a pretty big job to drop the tank out though

  4. #4
    RichardK is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    If you look in my gallery I have loaded pictures of my external fuel pump installation using a Bosch pump ( I'll have to get the part number).
    I have removed the original pump and replaced it with a landrover pickup pipe with a small amount of fuel resistant hose attached.
    Note the primary filter between the tank and the pump to remove impurities from the pump and the original filter after the pump for the injectors.
    Cost of installation was minimal with the exception of the pump at around $180.
    Change over time for the pump is around 10 minutes.
    Hope this is of assistance.
    RichardK

    Series IV Matrix Offroad Camper following our Discovery 3 with E Diff, BAS Remap, Mitch Hitch, Uniden UHF, Codan NGT HF, Masten TPMS, Proquip Compressor Guard, ARB Winch Bar, Milemarker Hydraulic Winch, 4x4 Intelligence Rear Wheel Carrier, VMS GPS with Rear Camera,

  5. #5
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    someone at some point has put an external pump on the car, but this is as noisy as buggery. I have replaced that as well and the filter but hasnt fixed anything.

    the basic problem is that if it gets down to quarter of a tank it cuts out and you have to wait about half an hour and then it will fire up again.

    My main concern is getting to the tank, as it looks like a pretty hard job to drop it out and almost as hard to remove the rear floor to get to the top of the tank.

    ahhh, cars cars cars, hey?

  6. #6
    RichardK is offline ChatterBox Silver Subscriber
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    1. You will have to remove the tank, doesn't take too long once you've done it a few times! Unfortunately to fix things sometimes it is better to be patient and prepared to go the long road.
    Check out the pickup, it may have the old pump left there which IMHO I would take out, or the replacement pickup may not be working for some reason.
    2. The outboard pump may be too high as the pumps are not designed to lift.
    so you may have to relocate..
    3. The Bosch pumps (the only ones I have had experience with) can become noisy if they have run dry or on low fuel levels, they buzz. The way to overcome this is not to let the fuel level get too low.

    Doing that can also drag up rubbish from the bottom of the tank.
    RichardK

    Series IV Matrix Offroad Camper following our Discovery 3 with E Diff, BAS Remap, Mitch Hitch, Uniden UHF, Codan NGT HF, Masten TPMS, Proquip Compressor Guard, ARB Winch Bar, Milemarker Hydraulic Winch, 4x4 Intelligence Rear Wheel Carrier, VMS GPS with Rear Camera,

  7. #7
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    THE TANK WILL NEED TO BE DRAINED FIRST AND THEN REMOVED.
    ITS NOT TO HARD A JOB BUT IF YOU HAVENT DONE IT BEFORE ALLOW ABOUT 2 HOURS OUT AND IN. IT WAS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH RANGIE PUMPS TO PLAY UP AND I THINK THE HOLDEN PUMP WAS THE SAME BOSCH PART BUT HAD TO BE FITTED INTO THE RANGIE UNIT. (YOU WILL UNDERSTAND WHAT I MEAN WHEN YOU PULL IT OUT)
    ONCE ITS IN YOUR HAND THEN GO COMPARE IT WITH THE HOLDEN VERSION. BUT BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE GAUZE PICKUP FILTER.
    CHEERS
    TONY

  8. #8
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    Fuel Pump all replaced now.
    Dropped tank out to do it. It wasnt that hard at all. 6bolts to get the tow bar frame out of the way, and then 4 bolts to drop the tank out and also disonnecting various cables etc.

    replaced the Intank pump with a Commy VN pump (looked identicle), and seeing as a Ford / Land Rover dealer quoted me $750 for a new Land Rover pump, and a Rover Spares shop quoted me $450 for a 'non rover' pump. This one cost me $85 new i dont think i can go wrong.

    Also replaced the plastic Fuel Sender Float as it was quarter full of petrol with a metal one, works fine.

    now i gotta fix the Plenum Chamber - seems to be sucking air into it, and also the Distributor Diaphram is stuffed as well.
    jobs i will haev to do this week as i have a week off.

    it is running heaps better now though with the new pump install. i couldnt beleive how simple it was in the end.

  9. #9
    Hellspawn Guest
    Nice to hear you're making progress. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

  10. #10
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    ok, done the plenum chamber now. that was harder than it looked, well, fidly more than hard. i have dropped a friggin alan key down behind the motor and its now impossible to retrieve. Will have to hope it falls out on the drive way, as its not mine!!

    next on the list is to repalce the Distributor Vacuum Unit as its not doing anything at all, so idles pretty crappy. But to get a new one is $135, so will ahve to see about that.

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