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A work collegue had his Defender serviced by a reputable company and then found he had no power climbing hills. He was also blowing smoke. The hose clamps for air intake on the turb0 were loose :!: :!: :x
Worth just poking around with a screw driver & making sure everything is tight.
When we fitted that stupid lift pump it was a very tight fit & we did move the injector pipe by the smallest of bees wings, but I am talking very minute movement, just to stop it rubbing on each other.
I did allso run the engine & there was no sign of bubbles in the expansion tank.Should I have this investigated further???
Ok I have checked all the clamps on the hoses they are all tight.
I checked the fan belt and it is fine, not slipping.
I'm not sure if the fan has a viscios hub as I don't know what one is.(the fan runs all the time)But the fan is definatly working, but as the problem is only up above 80km/h I would not have thought the fan would matter.
I have allso made sure the fins of the radiator & a/c condensor are clear & air flows through easily.
I have changed the fuel filter & it blew a bit of white/blue smoke for a couple minutes when reved but then the smoke stopped. It seemed to go a little better around the block, but it would be hard to say untill I give it a good run to compare.
One thing I did notice when I emtied the old fuel filter was it had allot of brown fungus looking stuff come out when I tipped it out into a bucket.
8O
The "brown fungus" is not normal and could be an indicator of bad fuel.
there is a magnetic filter that is great for removing / preventing fungus and bacterial problems in diesel, supposed to be very very good....Quote:
Originally posted by Gidget
One thing I did notice when I emtied the old fuel filter was it had allot of brown fungus looking stuff come out when I tipped it out into a bucket.
am sure i put a link to it in the web links area.... will have to have a lookeesee...
Diesel ' Bug '
Microbiological organisms, Cladosporium resinae and Aspergillus fumigatus being but two of many, and commonly called 'DIESEL BUG', can grow at the interface between the WATER and the fuel. This organism can block fuel filters and bring you to a stop anywhere. It propagates quickly in warm, humid climates. These organisms generate acids that corrode highly polished metal surfaces, like the inside of fuel injection pumps and injectors, this can cause high fuel leakage past the plungers into the oil system. The oil system on the engine then becomes seriously diluted with diesel, which may show up as a crankshaft and/or main bearing failures amongst other things. This nasty little bug has been know to totally destroy large engines!
They also generate slime which blocks fuel filters and in severe cases, fuel lines.
How do I identify microbiological contamination?
The fuel is cloudy or a rusty color ( man, this is going to be bad ), the filters will appear to be slimy ( man that's bad ) or the filters are covered with a black jelly ( man, that's really bad! )
How do I get rid of it?
Drain all the fuel, including the lines, and replace the filters. Dispose of it in accordance with the local rules. If possible, steam clean the tank. Refill the tank completely with clean fuel.
Bleed the fuel system and go motoring. Any residual dead bug will be burned up in combustion.
How do I prevent it?
Add a proprietary biocide to the fuel.
Do not add more biocide than the manufacturer recommends! Usually 1 millilitre per litre of diesel.
Use a ' Debug ' or other type of magnetic bug killer filter. These require the fuel to be pumped through them almost continuously to kill all the microorganisms. Boats that are used rarely may need a circulating pump to keep the fuel moving through the ' filter '.
ok after some research I think we are all on the right track now.
DIESEL BUG, must have been in the system prior to us recieving the vehicle or we picked it up in bad fuel somewhere. But we have used MOREY'S Diesel contioning for every tank since we have owned it (It is suppose to kill the bug decrease smoke & increase power) But anyway we reckon it has killed the bug & now the dead remnants are now clogging everything.
So what to do?
We are going to do as adviced by Incisor, flush & steam the tank, Drain the lines & change all the filters again.So this is great if this is the problem, so if anyone has other sudjestions keep them coming.
But THANK you all allot for going out of your way to ask people & get info for me, it is VERY much APPRECIATED.
Good luck and hope this is the cure. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
Keep us posted.
found the link i was looking for
http://www.morison.com.au/De-Bug.htm
this is the magnetic filter that stops this stuff taking hold.
Ok guys have a nother problem for you.
The other night we drove the defender(raining) down to the river,went prawning, then when we came back & went to start it, it would crank over but not start.
We then checked the following
-we had fuel
-we had fuel in & out of the filter
-we had fuel into the injector pump
- we then undid one of the injector lines were it goes onto the injector & wound it over, Nothing, no fuel coming out the line.
-we then rang for a tow & a couple of hrs later we are home.
So I then start going through the manual I downloaded & find it could be a million things.
One thing we thought it could be was the electric solinoid on the injector pump which stops the engine.
It was late so we left it & I was going to have it towed to the mechanic the next day.
The next morning I went out to try again & it started as if nothing was wrong & hasn't missed a beat since.
Could that solinoid have got wet & not opened to let fuel through the injector pump.
ANY SUGGESTIONS WELCOMED AGAIN
THANK YOU
Possible. Maybe the solenoid had a not so good connection due to the dampness. Weird though.
Can you get at the solenoid ?
Just thinking if you can.... a large spring carried in the console of the cab would be a good temp. fix to get you home. Disconnect the solenoid and use the spring to pull the shutoff over to the "on" position. If you have to stop the motor for some reason, could always quickly stall it.
If you can't, suppose a fused length of wire with those aligator clips on each end would also "get you home". Same again, stall it to stop the motor.