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Thread: V8 stripdown

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    V8 stripdown

    Well, the 3.5 in my Rangy is starting to make too many weird noises, so I decided it was time to start rebuilding the 4.4 (P76).

    It's been sitting on the floor for ages. It was getting weaker and weaker, and starting to "choof" from one cylinder, which made me think 'head gasket', so it got taken out and replaced with a free 3.5L.

    Take the manifold off. Found "O.S.-30" stamped onto the block on top of each cylinder (in the valley). I've since found that this 4.4 is also bored another 30 thou oversize... (Can anyone tell me if this makes a big difference to the capacity of the motor? I'm still an mechanical n00b!)

    Rocker covers off - sit them in a tub of solvent while I take the heads off. Take the passenger side head off - Bugger.. This is what met my eyes :





    Oh well - let's try the other side, and see what it looks like:


    The heads don't look any better. (All pics can be seen in my gallery [Click Here]) Considering it pretty much only ever ran on LPG, that seems like a lot of crud to me. Is that normal (ish)?

    Cam needs replacing too, which is odd, considering the tappets all look OK.. 8O

    Oh well, I've got something to do for the next few weekends anyway... :wink:

    Remember I put the rocker covers in a tub of solvent? Well, at least I've got "bling bling" rocker covers now!



    [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

    The mechanics that work next door to me will take a look at the heads on Monday, and let me know what they think. At least that's not going to cost me money!

    Now my question :

    What does everyone reckon - should I just put the heads back on and drive it till it dies (after the 3.5 dies), or is it worth doing a rebuild to it?

    Cheers

    Macca

  2. #2
    Hellspawn Guest
    0.030 over doesn't leave much left. Probably has one rebore left unless you stick liners in and come back to a standard bore working on 0.040 over is a general limit.

    Might be able to get away with a light hone and new set of rings. You'd have to measure the bores for difference. Looks about normal though for a motor that has seen some work.

    'choofing'..... Could be a lifter not working, ie. priming up and pumping properly or locked up solid so the valves are opening not enough or too far, sticky valve or as you mention head gasket but would normally show on piston crowns with markings of water. From what I have seen is a white powder but they look pretty dry to me.

    Front of right hand bank looks a little like rust... as though it could have been leaking under the gasket. Looks a different colour to the other cylinder rims like it wasn't sealing though the piston crown looks similar to the others so maybe not.

    Is there something about the cam that warrants it's change ?

    Just me but if I were taking the head(s) of an old motor for any reason then would probably undo and knock the pistons out as well, mostly 'cos I hate doing things more than once. You're well over half way now and you want to change the cam anyway so I'd keep going. If the gudgeons are still good then could get away with light hone of the bores, new cam bearings and cam, new rings on the old pistons, new bottom end bearings, clean the heads up with new guide rubbers and cut the valves in before bolting it all back up. I'd guess $800 all tolled incl. machining which to me is a cheap engine.

    If the gudgeons are loose along with the measurements of the bores, new pistons and gudgeons on the old con rods would also be acceptable. Pistons will cost a bit though I think.

    There's quite a few options open to you, choosing the right one will be your budget and aspirations of the motor as to which one that is rather than what someone else believes.

  3. #3
    adamv8 Guest
    Hi Macca,
    It is recommended to replace all valvetrain components, but tappets particularly if you replace camshaft...bit worn tappets can ruin your new camshaft quite quickly...
    adam

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