Thread: Maxi Drive - operation advice please

Hi rocks, I think you're close, my money is on the switch is water/mud damaged/stuck or not quite making contact.

I have the same maxidrive as you by the sound of it. That switch on the axle would be my bet, hell of a place to be
If you jack up the back axle you can tell if the MD is engaged & disengaged. A faint click is not very definite.

I can't remember where is the nearest join in the cables is or continue to check at the indicator lamp. I'm not at home at the moment. I still have the electrical drawing somewhere. But if you can find the ends of the wire from the switch itself and connect them to your test light ot multimenter, and operate the axle engaged and disengaged a few times you should be able to see the switch open and close. If the switch is working check if you have power supply to it etc.(looks like you have). When I fitted the MD I covered the switch and it's wires completely with neutral cure silicon.
I think you've got the electrical side understood.
I would disconnect the actuator vacuum line and put a few drops of oil inside each side of the piston on the actuator. Operate the system back wards and forwards to make sure the actuator is moving the full stroke and making contact with the micro switch. If you have your multimeter connected you should be able to do the two things at the same time.

Mike,
I a pair in mt RRClassic.
I have attached the install instructions for the rear maxidrive, which includes wiring recommendations.
You will see that the indicator light is earthed at the diff, so power is supplied to the lamp. The light stays on whenever the diff is engaged, and dependent on where you draw the power from, it may be on irrespective of the ignition etc . Hope this makes sense.

Thanks RR, I'll add that to my soft copy library.

cheers simmo

Hi Simmo and Michael T
Thanks for that information - it's gold!

Simmo, I didn't know you could or should oil the actuator but that does make sense after all it's been there almost 30 years and yes, when he arrived it was clear Monty has been through some muddy spots in his time. He was also sat for at least a year before I bought him.

Michael the PDF is brilliant. The bit about the push on wire and internal switch is interesting, so it could be that dirt is preventing the switch operating correctly and this happened to the PO so he/she disconnected power to the lamp.

Failing this, perhaps I'll have to make sure diff is unlocked and wind out the threaded contact till the light goes off. Then check it locked. I know that shouldn't need touching, but a lot can happen in 30 years...
Thanks guys!
Mike

Hi rocks, I 've got a vague recollection the oil was a recommendation in my literature I got with the Diff kit, Other guys might be able to confirm that. But its going to be dry in there that's for sure, sitting on the back axle is a tough place to be.
I make a habit of operating mine from time to time when driving on grass etc just for exercise. If you jack the wheel sup and on off etc and use CRC on the switch i might come good. Everything about the maxidrive is top quality. I'm not sure how we go getting parts like a new switch now though. simmo

ARB (and other lockers) - the light comes on when you hit the switch
MD - the light comes on only when the locker is 100% engaged and only then if you have a good contact (earth) and the screw isn't rusted.

Also because it is a low pressure system (+/- 13 psi as opposed to 90 psi for ARB etc) it can take a while to engage or disengage. Often when engaging you can "feel" it lock but the light only comes on 20m further down the track, and vice versa when disengaging (light goes off straight away and then there is a 2nd hiss when it fully unlocks).

Cheers Ben, I think I've heard the second, shorter hiss when unlocking...

Is it safe to remove the cover with the 4 Allen screws securing it or will the innards go 'ping' all over the floor?

Originally Posted by 2 rocks

Cheers Ben, I think I've heard the second, shorter hiss when unlocking...

Is it safe to remove the cover with the 4 Allen screws securing it or will the innards go 'ping' all over the floor?

I am not sure what you mean by "cover". The actuator assembly is normally machined from one block of aluminium - and is secured by 4 bolts.


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20...20025Small.jpg

If you remove the 4 bolts you can lift the entire actuator assembly off. You just need to make sure you don't move the locking dog on the axle shaft,, and engage it propery with the tonge/fork on the actuator when putting it back on.