TD5 fuel cooler o-ring headache

I bought a set of 4 orings from a UK vendor on ebay. AFAIR there are two slightly different Orings in the kit.
The smaller goes in the original groove and the larger in the outer unused groove.
I think that this is a good solution, as it is less likely to leak when the hose pulls down on an angle.
Anyway , mine doesn't leak at all now.
The job is much easier to do with the cooler out of the car, and I had to make a special tool to undo the fuel hose at the back which is a set of small offset needle nosed pliers with the points bent inwards.
Maybe somehow you have the slightly larger Oring. the smaller one should go in relatively easily as the housing is tapered.
I also have the special tool for the clips which cost AFAIR about $10 from China on ebay.
Regards Philip A

Slightly larger? In cross section?
That would be 4mm as opposed to 3.53mm
Seems odd as the 2nd groove is dimensionally the same.

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

I bought a set of 4 orings from a UK vendor on ebay. AFAIR there are two slightly different Orings in the kit.
The smaller goes in the original groove and the larger in the outer unused groove.
I think that this is a good solution, as it is less likely to leak when the hose pulls down on an angle.
Anyway , mine doesn't leak at all now.
The job is much easier to do with the cooler out of the car, and I had to make a special tool to undo the fuel hose at the back which is a set of small offset needle nosed pliers with the points bent inwards.
Maybe somehow you have the slightly larger Oring. the smaller one should go in relatively easily as the housing is tapered.
I also have the special tool for the clips which cost AFAIR about $10 from China on ebay.
Regards Philip A

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Thanks PhilipA. Did you have any trouble getting the cap with new O-ring to fit all the way back in the cooler cylinder? With the new O-ring, my cap only fits in half way, not enough for the clamp to fit on.

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Originally Posted by kipsplace

Thanks PhilipA. Did you have any trouble getting the cap with new O-ring to fit all the way back in the cooler cylinder? With the new O-ring, my cap only fits in half way, not enough for the clamp to fit on.

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I'd suggest check the oring isn't twisted at that the housing is clean and free of debris.

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Thanks PhilipA. Did you have any trouble getting the cap with new O-ring to
fit all the way back in the cooler cylinder?

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Not AFAIR, A quite firm push was needed to seat it, and you may have a problem if the cap is not straight on. My ends were also quite clean without any corrosion or debris.
Regards Philip A
on reflection I usually use a bit of silicone disc brake lubricant when I fit tight orings etc and I may have done that. You used to be able to easily buy it but now it is very expensive and hard to get.

Hello. I must thank everyone for their helpful advise in tackling my dilemma (and extreme frustration) in fixing a leaking fuel cooler.
As suggested it was indeed the flattened O-ring that was the cause of the leak. I purchased new O-rings from a local Land Rover "specialist" and set about fitting them. Then followed two weeks of sheer frustration as, no matter what I did, I could not get the end cap to seat properly with the new O-ring. I used lube, repeatedly took it out and cleaned the unit, carefully trying to refit it ... all to no avail. I had to refit the old leaking seal just to get the LR road back on the road for work. At one stage I used plumbers white seal tape under the old O-ring as an emergency repair ... surprise it worked. After numerous posts and advice I bought a new repair kit from Roverlord and immediately noticed the new O-rings were thinner than the ones supplied by the local LR "specialist". The new O-rings fitted straight in and the repair job complete in about 20 minutes.
The irony was that a leading car repair business on the Sunshine Coast quoted me $1000 for a new cooler unit plus labour costs saying the O-rings were not the problem. Seems they have adopted Land Rover's refusal to sell the O-rings and insist on trying to sell you a new $1000 unit unnecessarily.
On the positive side, I learned a few lessons - not to trust Land Rover, the leading car repairer here or the local LR "specialist".
I also learned just how valuable is the advice and help available from Aulro members on this website ... without it I may well have paid out $1500 instead of $29.
I can also offer an emergency repair, using white plumbers tape under the old O-ring to lift it slightly, to other members.
Thanks again to everyone who helped, in particular Roverlord for the correct parts and Tombie who alerted me to the problem being the wrong O-rings.
We're back on the road again .....

I did mine two days ago. I removed it from the truck and did it on the bench.

I went to a hydraulic shop and purchased two BS225 viton "O" rings. I got the clips off by knocking them sideways at the join. I smeared some PBR rubber grease on the "O" rings. I reckon this stuff would have to be the most slippery stuff known to man.

The ends slipped in nice and easy. I then refitted the clips using a pair of multigrips and a screw driver.