What are the specs on your car?
I know you're running 33s but barwork, rack, gearing, performance mods, etc?
well to be honest it is noticeably different from before, i wouldn't go pulling out in front of a semi or anything, but all things considered it still goes fine once moving. There are also other factors involved such as, your tyre size, any extra weight, turbo and air intake condition including intercooler, extra drag like a roof rack the list goes on.... my aim when i started this mod was to do it for less than the cost of a s/h trans from a wrecker, and it came in well under what the trans alone would've cost. saying that, i saved a lot of coin by not having a converter made up, i was quoted upwards of $1000, which would've doubled my overall expense! maybe down the track i'll get a medium sized converter made up to try and regain some kw's!![]()
Certainly at lower rpm. The engine will be under more torque load and will produce higher EGT until the turbo wakes up. Once you're past ~2000rpm and the converter is locked there won't be any difference.
I think this torque converter could work well with a compound turbo setup. But that's a whole project in itself.
Roarin 8, what flywheel are you using? With the td5 one having 3 bolt holes how did you do up the 4 bolt torque converter to the flex plate? I am getting a low mileage d2 v8 trans and torque converter so I'm thinking I'll put them in with a larger trans cooler and if the trans fails again I'll go for the hp24
Standard gearing and diffs, front winch bar with winch, rear bar, full length rack with side and rear awnings. +2' TF shocks and dislocation cones, 2' front springs, 3' rears, HD cromo drag and track rods. Standard engine, turbo and intercooler, but the boost is wound up a little and it has an TRS ecu remap. straight through muffler and 2.5 inch exhaust. On warm days over 29deg, It lags REALLY badly on take off, but it did that before the mod too. If you're on a hill it feels like it'll never get moving till the boost kicks in (i must look into that!).... Also i took the rack off a couple of days ago and that made a difference with lower egt's on the highway by about 100-150 degrees.
If you're using that trans its a hp 22, so, you can use your old TC and flex plate etc etc... just swap your bellhousing over and you're set! funny thing is if its from a v8, chances are its had a harder time than a td5 one!
I did the tc bolts up through the little inspection hole underneath the bellhousing. It was a challenge but i didn't hurry and i had the help of a magnetic stick to hold it in the right spot. A larger cooler would help these autos out but be careful as it still needs to get warm enough to go into lockup on cooler days. i was thinking of running a larger cooler with a thermo fan but haven't really looked into it yet!
Maybe look into a thermostat in the oil lines. Would cost around $100- in hose/fittings plus the t/stat.
I really want a lower stall torque converter, I did a stall test on it, mind you the rltrans slips, and got it up to 3200 rpm! So I'll make the medium size one I'm getting work. Thinking of taking the engine out too so there's no body in the way when I want to dummy it all up and so I can easily check everything over while I'm at it. The trans apparently has 5000km on it since new so it should be fine. With the trans cooler I was just going to install a p38 unit, apparently they're better?
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks