4BD1T says no - troubles starting

**isuzurover** · 31st July 2014, 07:31 PM

A 4BD1 just needs fuel, air and a good battery to start. Glow plugs are not needed. As Brian says, it could be your EDIC motor or it could be the fuel lift pump (or air in the fuel).

Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

Where would I find that?

The EDIC motor is the thing that makes a noise when you turn the ignition on, and again when you turn it off. A blown fuse or loose connection may mean it locks in the off position.

So first - check for the noise when you cycle the ignition.

The EDIC motor is on top of the drivers footwell. There is an electrical connector near the clutch reservoir - the fuse unfortunately is behind the dash.

For a quick bylass you can unbolt the 2 small (10mm) bolts on the inlet manifold which hold the edic cable. It will then revert to the on position, and you will need to stall it in gear or open the bonnet and pull the cable to stop the engine.

**Mick_Marsh** · 31st July 2014, 07:32 PM

Keep the suggestions coming guys. It's a tomorrow problem now.

**Mick_Marsh** · 31st July 2014, 07:37 PM

Originally Posted by isuzurover

The EDIC motor is the thing that makes a noise when you turn the ignition on, and again when you turn it off.

That's it! I thought there was something different when I tried to start it. No whirring noise.
Thankyou.
So, it's a pull the dash apart to get to the fuse?

**isuzurover** · 31st July 2014, 07:54 PM

Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

That's it! I thought there was something different when I tried to start it. No whirring noise.
Thankyou.
So, it's a pull the dash apart to get to the fuse?

Check the connectors near the clutch reservoir are ok and not loose or corroded first.

**Mick_Marsh** · 31st July 2014, 07:58 PM

I'm suspecting I may need a new EDIC. It's probably full of mud. Well, the heater core and heater fan motor was.

**steveG** · 31st July 2014, 08:40 PM

There's not much to the EDIC - just a electric window style motor with worm drive and small gearbox with a plastic gear that moves the cable.
If its been sitting damp for a bit it might be just enough to cause the end of the motor shaft to corrode and stick in the supporting bush.
Pull it out, rip the motor off and give it a good cleanup.

Electrically, the relay has 5 wires going to it. 3 go to the motor, one is 12v from IGN, and the other ground. Easy to check if you are getting 12v there with the IGN on before you start pulling everything apart.

Not sure if they are getting easier to procure now that the Perenties are being sold off, but they used to be hard to find, and not cheap. I reckon that some Japanese electric window motors (esp. Nissan) might be a direct replacement for the motor itself, but haven't had a chance to investigate further...

Steve

**Mick_Marsh** · 31st July 2014, 08:53 PM

Originally Posted by steveG

Not sure if they are getting easier to procure now that the Perenties are being sold off, but they used to be hard to find, and not cheap.

I was quoted about $1400 for the heater fan. Last known list price.
Might be worth finding an EDIC or two and popping them on the spare parts shelf.
Yep, thanks, I'll see if I can get the one I've got working.

**isuzurover** · 31st July 2014, 10:26 PM

You will probably find after a clean and regrease it will be fine.

If not, this may help:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1438001-post88.html

**85 county** · 31st July 2014, 11:16 PM

a cheep door lock actuator and a new brakett will do the job

**dobbo** · 1st August 2014, 02:33 AM

A piece of fencing wire will do the job

sent from hell

Thread: 4BD1T says no - troubles starting

Thread Tools

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions