Same neg is fine.
And yes, connect the negs on the batteries.
So this is what I have:
- 24v system for the vehicle, earthed to the chassis (as supplied by manufacturer)
- 2 x 12v batteries as supplied by manufacturer
- 12v "house" system for the camper (for lighting, inverter, etc)
- 3 x 12v batteries in parallel installed by me
- 3 Solar panels
- 3 separate +ve wires to 3 separate fuses
- Common -ve
- 2 separate MPPT charge controllers (one for 12v one for 24v)
- The 12v system is not connected to the chassis at all, so the -ve of the 2 battery systems do not connect at all. i.e. the 12v system is completely independent of the 24v system.
The 3 solar panels can be switched from:
- Case 1: 3 panels for the house batteries (i.e. all feeding 12v)
- or Case 2: 2 panels for the house batteries (12v) and 1 panel for the vehicle batteries (24v)
The question is, can I share the -ve (earth) circuit from the solar panels? This is the only point in the whole system where the 2 voltages "touch". Apart from this everything else is completely separated.
Will I get any strange voltage 'leaks' or flows where the 2 -ve systems connect? Case 2 (where the panels are 'split' between 12v & 24v) is the only time the 2 systems connect.
OR: Should I just connect the -ve of both battery systems to each other?
Any advice appreciated.
Thanks
David
Same neg is fine.
And yes, connect the negs on the batteries.
03 Disco 2a, TD5, Olso blue, 7 seater, Auto, Chipped, EGR'd, 2"lift, SLS, Dual Batteries, Provent, TM-2 engine saver
Am I thinking about it too much
I was concerned about some sort of voltage leak, but looks like it is nothing to worry about.
So, should I explicitly connect the -ve of both system together with some nice heavy wire? This would definitely tie the negatives to the same voltage potential.
Best practice is to have the negs on the batteries linked. Big cable is better.
03 Disco 2a, TD5, Olso blue, 7 seater, Auto, Chipped, EGR'd, 2"lift, SLS, Dual Batteries, Provent, TM-2 engine saver
No worries - I'll do it with a HD cable from 12v -ve to 24v -ve terminal (and not through the chassis).
Thanks for the advice.
Years ago it was common for batteries to have an external link on the top to link the cells.
Now if you wanted less then 12 volts you would take the -ve from the negative terminal or a point on the engine/chassis. You would then take +ve from a point along the battery top to get the required volts at 2.1 volt increments.
Same would apply to a 24 volt system.
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
Spuddy you are thinking about it too much. My 101 has a 24v alternator, a 12v alternator, a 24v battery bank and an aux 12v battery - all are just earthed to the nearest convenient spot as are the various 24v and 12v accessories. You just need to make sure the 24v and 12v positive systems live on different circuits as 12v systems don't run for long on 24v.
Cheers
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Ok folks, you really need to stick to the correct electrical symbols, and in this case, with different positives, it is imperative to use the correct symbols.
-ve and +ve are electronic schematic symbols and are not used in automotive electrical circuits, plus they have a completely different meaning to what is being discussed here.
-ve means voltages below 0v or ground, and would be displayed with an actual voltage, EG -12v. or if no exact voltage is known or there is a variable voltage, it is marked as -ve.
So this symbol has nothing to do with this or any other automotive electrical circuit and as above, in this specific case, could lead to erroneous ASSUMPTIONS.
+ve is also a non automotive electrical symbol and in ALL DC CIRCUITS any number is automatically deemed as being volts above 0v, EG 12v and 24v.
Hi spudboy and to your question, as others have posted, the negative of all batteries and appliances would normally be connected to a common ground or earth, like the chassis.
If you do not set up a common ground or earth you will end up with one or two FLOATING circuits and in extreme cases could cause shorts to occur in the positive and negative circuits.
This is just a suggestion but if you are setting this up from scratch, try using specific colours for the two different voltage positives.
Start by using Black for all negative circuits.
Use Red for the main 12v supply and Red with a trace colour for 12v circuits.
Then say Yellow for the main 24v supply and Yellow with a trace colour for any 24v circuits.
I must be stoopid or something.
In the 12V system battery A is Neg ground and Pos for 12V.
In the 24V system battery B is Neg ground and Pos is bridged to Neg on battery C and 24V is supplied from Pos on Batt c and ground.
We used to use 24V aircraft starter motors as winches and used one Pos ground battery and one Pos ground battery. Power was supplied by a Neg ground alternator and a second Pos ground alternator (made by reversing the diodes in the alternator and having a an external Pos ground regulator. 24V was across the non ground terminals and the main vehicle system ran off one side usually the Neg ground system.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
I suspect a typo in the red text above.
I think that wrt the OP, the advantage of using the chassis as part of a DC battery system is that it provides a saving on cabling costs as you can use the chassis as the return path for the circuits. If you were trying to manage the isolation of the circuits for noise reasons or to reduce the likelihood of unintentional short circuits then keep you systems isolated. As soon as you use automotive alternators you will be forced to use the mounting points as the return for the alternators as vehicular systems use the chassis as the return conductor.
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