Series 3 Cooling System

Well guys I have reassembled the system again with new temperature sensor & thermostat and still have problems. Radiator although not 100% has been back flushed by radiator specialist and he said flow rate should be adequate. Didn't want to strip it down due to poor condition of fins.


Started vehicle with thermostat in and temperature rose fairly quickly as if it wasn't opening.


Removed thermostat and things seemed fine at idle until I took it for a drive and after about 5km temperature was back up in the red.


Getting frustrated now as to where to next.????? :angry:

As the others have said buy yourself a cheap lazer thermometer from Dick Smith and after running check the temperature of the head when the guage shows red.
If the temperature on the thermometer is above about 100deg and the guage is in the red either your thermostat is not opening or the radiator needs replacing.
Phil

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dunno

...still have problems. Radiator although not 100% has been back flushed by radiator specialist and he said flow rate should be adequate. Didn't want to strip it down due to poor condition of fins.

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If the fins are rotting then the radiator is stuffed! The fins allow the heat to be dissipated to the atmosphere; once they corrode to that extent, they can't conduct the heat away from the tubes.

Back flushing might remove some loose muck, but if it has set hard in the tubes as it often does, no amount of flushing will remove it. Removing the tanks and rodding the tubes with a dipstick works, but in your case you need a new core.

Hard luck - new cores are expensive but they are cheaper than an engine rebuild,

Cheers Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by chazza

If the fins are rotting then the radiator is stuffed! The fins allow the heat to be dissipated to the atmosphere; once they corrode to that extent, they can't conduct the heat away from the tubes.

Back flushing might remove some loose muck, but if it has set hard in the tubes as it often does, no amount of flushing will remove it. Removing the tanks and rodding the tubes with a dipstick works, but in your case you need a new core.

Hard luck - new cores are expensive but they are cheaper than an engine rebuild,

Cheers Charlie

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Thanks Charlie,
I've been afraid that replacing the radiator would be the answer and was aware of the expensive nature of same. Just didn't want to go down that path if with a new one I still ended up with an overheating problem. Its a risk I'll have to take.


Regards Peter

Timing, lack of air in the engine or across the radiator also have an effect on temperature.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phil B

As the others have said buy yourself a cheap lazer thermometer from Dick Smith and after running check the temperature of the head when the guage shows red.
If the temperature on the thermometer is above about 100deg and the guage is in the red either your thermostat is not opening or the radiator needs replacing.
Phil

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Phil B you were on the money. There is nothing wrong with the system other than an electrical fault with the gauges. When checking over the weekend motor is only getting up to around 43 degrees without the thermostat. Fuel gauge wasn't working properly but hadn't worried about it and temperature gauge used to climb to half way for a bit before climbing into the red giving all indications that it was working ok. On a test drive on Sunday with gauge in the red suddenly temp gauge dropped by half and fuel gauge started working giving a true indication of what I know to be in the tank. I'll now redo all earth connections to see if that solves future issues and reinstall thermostat.

Sounds like a dodgy earth to the voltage stabiliser. From memory, on the Series 3 this is on the back of the speedo.

John

Agree with John.
Think about changing the voltage stabiliser to an electronic unit (Ebay) while you are in there.
I found they make a big difference to the accuracy of both guages.
Phil.