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Thread: portable air compressors

  1. #1
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    portable air compressors

    I have one of them portable air compressors that you connect to your battery with a small set of battery clamps. Have had it for 5 years or so, and has been reliable enough except for one thing - the 50A blade fuse melting. A mate had the same problem with his (different brand compressor though).
    Has anyone else had this problem and what can be done to overcome it? Fuse has melted itself into the fuse holder and cannot be removed now, so am going to have to cut the wires and replace the fuse and holder.
    What should I replace it with - 50A, 75A?
    If I wanted to permanently mount the compresor in the car, any suggestions as to how I can wire it up? Was thinking of running a power supply from the battery to a master switch, and from there to the compressor, so that both the master switch and the on/off switch on the compressor have to be in the "on" position for the compressor to run....
    Cheers
    Brett

  2. #2
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    Is the fuse melting it the holder that the fuse sits in.......I'm guessing it will be small gauge wire either side of the fuse

    I fitted a quality fuse holder and bigger cable never have an issue.....mine is permanently wired in though

  3. #3
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    Yeah its melting the holder and the fuse body as well. Last time it happend I had to pull the fuse out and just use a bit of wire in its place. Dodgy, but did what I needed at the time as didn't have a spare fuse with me. Now however, I can't even remove the fuse.
    Will definitely look at upgrading the cable

  4. #4
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    If you use the compressor with the engine running the current running through the fuse will be less.

    Most compressors say to use while the engine is running as there is usually 13.9 volts available vs 12.7 or less from a battery.

    This means about 10% less current is passing through the fuse and can be the difference between melt and not melt.

    I always idle the car when using my ALDI compressor which can drag 50 amps and have never melted a fuse. The flimsy wires also can have a voltage drop effect and thicker wires along with idling will almost certainly fix the problem.
    Regards Philip A
    .

  5. #5
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    PhilipA - yeah I have always used it with the engine running, I'm paranoid about draining my batteries so anything auxillaries are usually only used/power up when the engine is idling. Still cooks the fuse though. As weeds said, perhaps it is the fusable link either side being smaller gauge and generating too much heat.

  6. #6
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    Melt the fuse instead!

    Hi, two reasons for heat build up like that,

    1. too much current, but then the fuse should do it's job and 'blow'(burn out).
    2. The usual thing in a case like this, is that the fuse is not tight enough in it's holder, the fuse blades into the connectors are loose.

    Any arcing or poor connection will cause the build up of heat, it's almost like having a mini arc welder in there.

    Replace your fuse holder with a good quality one and then use the smallest amperage fuse that will not 'blow' when using the compressor. Smallest amperage fuse equals greatest protection.

    Regards


    Mike

    Ps. any connector that shows signs of melting or discolouring (heat stress) is likely to be caused by poor connection as described above.

    Cheers
    Last edited by nismine01; 2nd September 2014 at 11:10 AM. Reason: Ps.

  7. #7
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    nismine01 - Cheers for that, makes sense, I probably should have thought about it a bit more Think I will head down to Jaycar in the next few days and see what they have got

  8. #8
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    Once you have the amperage determined from the fuse size then you could check the cable size using this site.

    Handy Hints – REDARC Electronics

    Was posted by AndyG a few weeks back.

  9. #9
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    Just an update - headed down to Jaycar yesterday and got a heavy duty fuse holder and swapped from a blade fuse to a glass fuse. $12 later, and all is good, compressor seems fine and nowehere near as much heat build up around the fuse or wiring, so probably was a dodgy connection in the fuse holder causing it to arc.
    Glad it was a cheap fix.
    Cheers
    Brett

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Is it a cheap compressor? On mine it was the on/off switch that melted. Basically on these the wiring and associated fittings is just not up to the job.

    Just be careful that now you have removed the weak point it does not just move elsewhere like the switch.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

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