Did You know this 'Can' happen to a diesel (Death by oil)

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

Did you read all the posts - Serg has managed to prime it using the hand primer by the sound of it. Would be hard to do that if the diaphragm was split.

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yes, apparently better than you did...

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Originally Posted by uninformed

sorry if there was confusion, I could NOT get it to prime with the hand primer on the lift pump.

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if you like consider my post this way...


what happens If im wrong and you dont check the pump, nothing
what happens if Im wrong and you do check the pump, you've learnt how to check the fuel pump which will aid you in future diagnosis of fueling problems (still a good outcome in my books)
What happens If Im right and you check the pump, you've now fixed a problem
What happens if Im right and you dont check the pump. If you're lucky you'll never get the engine to prime because you cant get enough fuel into the pump to obtain good combustion, if you're unlucky... read your first post again and imagine having to title it something like "I can now claim first and second place on the idiot of the year charts."

the pump is rebuild able if you're lucky its just the valves have been pooched by the hammering the pumps received from the over-rev (I'm not convinced it did over-rev if shutting it down by the electrics worked) most commonly the inlet valve will be stuck open if its not a torn diaphragm. If you block the outlet, put a hose on the inlet and blow in with your mouth, an it leaks air needs repair, If it doesnt you might get lucky and a little love with the small rubber knock-o-meter) might get it working again.

Lets speculate for a second that the lift pump was leaking, you over filled it by a liter or so and you got some diesel leaking in from the pump not much lets call it 250ml-.5l when the engine got up to operating temperature the diesel would have fractioned off (along with some of the oil) and been drawn out into the air intake so a very minor leak could easily be masked by the fuel burning off. This is in the same vein as adding up to 10% of the sumps capacities worth of kero to a diesel when you shut down in arctic conditions, when you start up cold the kero keeps the oil thinned down and as the engine warms up the kero evaporates off leaving you with more or less normal engine oil. The major difference is that when that was a popular thing to do Diesels vented their crank cases to atmosphere and not into the air inlet. (picture a 14l+ 6 pot diesel trying to do a runaway.)

Dave, my next thing to do is the pump. There is definitely something wrong with it now. So I will re read your info in the am and look into it. I am prepared to install a new one if I have to.

There is some oil grime around the bottom of the lift pump and aroung the oil filter housing. Is it ok to hit this with some diesel in a canester gun say at 70psi? Im not going to push stuff in whereit shouldnt go?

70psi might be a tad high if your talking a liquid pressure of 70psi. If your talking about a degreasing gun that sprays a mist or a broken stream then you should be about right, just watch the atmoisation of the diesel, spray it fine enough and while its not explosive it becomes very conflagerable (and its not good for your lungs either) a heated mix of truck wash should be enough to move most stuff.

Ive got a fairly big job on this weekend but if you want to swing up with the pump I'll disect it for you, If you've got the right aftermarket type already fitted I may have an alternate pump that will bolt onto the existing mounting plate.

70psi air pressure at the reg on compresser. Canister gun, ie has a undermount pot that you put fluid in and the air nozzel is ontop. Trigger operated. I presume it draws it out by venturi

My spelling probably isnt helping my cause.

thought that might have been what you ment...

there should be a rated pressure on the gun use that pressure and I wouldnt expect that it would force past anything as they usually throw a pretty good mist, give it a test spray with water first just to see what its going to do and if you're happy with the output theres no harm in trying.

Lift pumps have a habit of the arm bending,yours could be fine except the arms bent stopping it from working. Pat

I just went through Dave's check list:

#1 removed the supply line to the lift pump, removed the main return line that comes out the back of the IP. 8-10psi air pressure into the main return line and very shortly after diesel is coming out the supply line to the lift pump.

#2 I reinstalled the supply line to lift pump. I removed the outlet line from the lift pump (this goes to the fuel filter) and hand pumped the lift pump lever. No pressure

#3 I reinstalled the outlet line from the lift pump and removed the supply line again. I hand pumped the lift pump lever and no suction.

Im guessing the lift pump is buggered. Should I start ringing around for a new one, or remove this one and inspect?

after pricing them and about $110 for a delphi, Im thinking its not worth trying to fix something that may have more than one problem, when i can just remove and replace?

thoughts?

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Originally Posted by uninformed

after pricing them and about $110 for a delphi, Im thinking its not worth trying to fix something that may have more than one problem, when i can just remove and replace?

thoughts?

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Probably a good idea.

IMO you swap out lift pumps, and most to suit a Tdi/TGV aren't serviceable anyway.
I keep one as a spare as the OE ones (QH ?) weren't known for lasting either, I've found the Delphi one much better, so far.

When the tractor one died twelve months ago I just replaced it rather than put a repair kit through it as a replacement (OEM too) was cheaper.

Remember you need olives and a gasket for it. ;)

and banjo washers and injector washers if you are pulling them for a look see too.