Fix immediately.
physically check all others by twisting connection.
The D2 connections have a habit of blowing off.
I hope the D1's were made better!
late edit,
is that right hand connection standard?
it looks broken and reclamped??
Guys.....
Discovered I've got a leaking on the "Return" Hose between the Auto and the Auto Cooler. This hose is a metal hose all the way up to just before the Cooler where it turns a rubber hose with some sort of fitting. This fitting is what is leaking.
Looking at it, I was thinking that the whole metal & rubber hose (complete) will require replacing as I couldn't see how u can just replace the rubber hose part. Then there's the sensor that is tee's off at the large nut. I'm presuming that's for the Temp warning for overheating the Auto Trans. I gather this would have to be screwed out 1st before disconnecting and removing the rubber hose and metal pipe section back to the Auto?
What are my options here? Is there a aftermarket mod or fix for this type of leak?
Any help/advice would be greatful.....
Pics:
Rob
Fix immediately.
physically check all others by twisting connection.
The D2 connections have a habit of blowing off.
I hope the D1's were made better!
late edit,
is that right hand connection standard?
it looks broken and reclamped??
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Had exactly same problem. I was going to just replace rubber hoses with fittings from PIRTEK but ended up replacing both my auto cooler hoses on my 98 TDI. Purchased hoses from fleabay not overly expensive in fact was cheaper than PIRTEK bits. I used the opportunity to do a tranny oil and filter change. Made a big difference in smoothness of auto changing. Not difficult to do but fiddly. I made myself up a spanner to reach top fitting in tranny. Whole job took me about 5 hours. Longest time was removing hose from oil cooler as it was well and truly stuck. Ended up cutting it off.
I bought them from this bloke
blackburn4wdparts on eBay
He doesn't have any listed at the moment but there are any number for sale on Fleabay. I paid about $175 for them. No leaks so far. Also give ROVERLORD a go, sells on fleabay and a member here. Excellent to deal with. My preferred supplier but had none and I needed urgently.
If you are intending to go with an aftermarket cooler, then standard fittings will eventually be unusable as is. I can't speak for the P38 cooler connections, which might work with the standard stuff. For my use (towing a lot), I went with the biggest PWR cooler with 1/2" barbs (mounted in front of the rad), cut all the lines and silver soldered brass 1/2" fittings to the ones from the tranny, and carefully cut and did the same either side of where the temp sensor is. Then used blue silicone lines from Enzed all through with simple hose clamps. Result is a non leaker and cheap for when I do want to replace the lines. Done over 100K km on this with no issues.
If you do it yourself, it will all be less than $100 including the lines and fittings, when you get Enzed and Pirtek to make the connections is when it gets expensive.
FYI, to cleanly cut the old hoses from the standard fittings, make two vertical cuts through the crimp collars, then split them - the hoses will then pull off easily. Do-able with the sensor one easily enough, but you need to be careful as you also have to cut the perimeter without cutting the inner tube.
I did mine a few years ago. Cut the flexible hoses off and welded barbes in place. Then just fitted new hose with clamps that can now be done again latter if needed, as well as could be done in the bush.
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
Done a couple now. Removed both steel lines/hoses, cut hoses off at steel tubes, silver soldered JIC hydraulic nipples to tubes and temp sensor fitting (remove sensor first obviously).
One I made the hoses using screw on fittings with hi temp braided hose. The other I used push-lock fittings and hi-temp hose to suit. Both work and can easily just remove the hose section if they ever leak again.
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