Thread: accelerator pedal diagnosis

Hi, the easy way is to plug in a tester and see the live readings, at idle track(accel way) 1 = around 0.8V, track(accel way) 2 = around 4.2V and supply = 5V, if it's with 3 tracks, track 3 is close to track 2

the figures are aproximative cos they can have small differencies from one car to another important is that T1 + T2 to be = supply if you see what i mean

though usually for TP sensor missbehaviour there will be a 'driver demand ...' fault code logged too

Hi Sierra,

Cheers I'll have a look with the nanocom and post up my results.

Thanks
Bronson

Ok, so at idle Trk1=.522v trk2=4.536v trk3=0volts, but if you press the pedal flat to the floor with engine off trk3= 10volts???? I thought it would be a 2trk pedal unless it's been changed????
Hope I can get to the bottom of this!

Cheers
Bronson

I might go out later and try the same and we can compare the results.

i've seen that track 3 erratic reading many times, simply just neglect it as long as it's a 2 track setup, IMO it's a glitch as it's impossible to get 10V where the supply is around 5V... it doesnt affect driveability whatsoever, important in any case is to have T1 + T2 = supply all the time

Hmmmm...the engine has a slight stutter down low and all I'm really trying to do is find out why?? Considering the motor is rebuilt with all new injectors and all sensors running fine I thought it might be the acc pedal.
Maybe it may be worth putting in a flashable ECU and new file? Currently running a chipped Ecu

Cheers
Bronson

record a live data file with nanocom on a journey, convert it to excel and attach it here maybe we see something there... track 3 doesnt even have input in the ECM on those originally fitted with 2 track pedal

How far do you need to drive in order to see a pattern? Is it easy enough to save onto ur nanocom and transfer to the site?

Cheers
Bronson