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I found out the following on RAVE about the 2.2 Puma alternators recently...
Testing(relevant part only, done with no load except rear demister),
Does battery voltage (V1) = 14.8 volts or greater at idle?
Yes Install a new generator. Refer to the warranty policy and procedures manual, or determine if any prior approval programme is in operation, prior to the installation of a new module/component .
No GO to B2.
B2: BATTERY VOLTAGE AT IDLE Using battery voltage reading (V1) Does battery voltage (V1) = 13 volts or greater at idle (But less than 14.8 volts)?
Yes GO to B3.
No GO to Pinpoint Test C.
Description.
The generator is a self exciting type located at the front RH (right-hand) side of the engine and driven by the accessory drive belt. The generator is rated at 85/150 amps. The generator pulley incorporates a one-way clutch that reduces NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) and improves the life of the accessory drive belt. The one-way clutch prevents the generator from driving the belt (causing 'belt whip'), due to the high rotational inertia of the generator internal components, during transients in engine speed. A rectifier and a regulator are incorporated into the generator. The rectifier converts the AC (alternating current) produced in the stator coils of the generator into the DC (direct current) required by the vehicle electrical system. The regulator controls the output voltage from the generator and provides feedback of various parameters, including fault information, to the ECM (engine control module). Generator output is supplied to the battery, via the starter motor, from a threaded copper post on the generator casing. A single pin electrical connector on the rear of the casing provides a LIN (local interconnect network) bus interface for communication between the regulator and the ECM. The generator mountings provide the electrical ground for the generator. Generator output is controlled by the ECM, which sends information regarding charging voltage to the generator on the LIN bus. The ECM calculates the charging voltage using a software based battery temperature model, which uses the intake air temperature, road speed, coolant temperature and engine running timers to estimate the electrolyte temperature. This value is then used to select the appropriate charging voltage based upon the charging characteristic of the battery. The LIN bus is also used to communicate fault messages from the generator to the ECM. If a fault occurs, a DTC (diagnostic trouble code) is stored in the ECM and, if necessary, after a short delay the ECM sends a high speed CAN (controller area network) bus message to the instrument cluster to illuminate the ignition/no charge warning indicator. During engine starting, the ignition/no charge warning indicator is illuminated when the ignition is energized, and is extinguished when the engine starts and the ECM detects a generator output voltage.
Laymans' terms..
13->14.8 volts, variable 80->150Amps.
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Well bugger me that's some good info. Cheers.
Sounds like the alternator is capable of far more current than a little 50A Anderson plug can handle if we pay respect to their tech specs.
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2 Attachment(s)
On the search to find under what situation an alternator may supply the full 150A, I found an interesting rule of thumb for alternator output relative to battery bank state of charge (relative to Ah):
Maximum alternator output = 50% of discharged capacity.
So a battery bank of say 150Ah, where it has depleted approx 33% (ie 50Ah), would roughly require initial current of 25A to charge, and current would reduce as batteries approach fully charged.
(Read more at Charging rate of alternator)
Looking at the specs of the alternator on the 2.2tdci...
Denso DAN1104 (104210-1510
87 17613 03983 0)
Land rover part CH12-10300-BC
LR029981
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1442146426
Having difficulty finding any further specs from Delco using the part number though... Best I could find is the application guide
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1442145276
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Hi Toxic and a suggestion. Give that link the flick. There is just too much misinformation on it.
For example, to claim a battery will draw a specific amount of current is nonsense because the amount of current a battery CAN and WILL draw are controlled by a large number of factors.
An example. I carried out some experiments when I had me D4.
I mounted an Optima D34 55Ah battery, in a low state, ( 11.58v or 20% SoC ) in the rear cargo area, and connected it to the cranking battery via an SC80-LR isolator + 50 amp auto resetting circuit breaker, two 50 amp Anderson plugs ( 1 in the engine bay, 1 at the Optima + 50 amp auto resetting circuit breaker ) and 10m of 6B&S Twin cable temporarily run through the D4.
At start up, the current draw was 63 amps and while this tapered off over the drive, after a 90 minute drive, the Optima was at over 95% SoC.
Now for those with a D4 and one of my kits, where the Optima is less than 1m ( cable distance ) from the cranking battery, via an SC80-LR isolator + 50 amp auto resetting circuit breaker.
If your Optima is as low as that, when you start your drive, the Optima can easily have a startup draw of 100+ amps and will be at 95+% in under an hours drive.
Toxic, the alternator is the same size, the battery is the same size and at the same state of charge, only the cable length is different, yet there is at least a 30% improvement in recharge time. This gives you an idea of how erroneous the info is in that link.
Hi Alien, the alternator is not 80->150A, the reference in that great info you provided, 85/150, is about two different size alternators. an 85 am alternator or a 150 amp alternator.
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Thanks for the clarification on that Tim. I try to take everything on the internet with a grain of salt, so good to hear that it's not the most accurate info (I thought it might be suspect, but lacked the knowledge to tell for sure).
Can anyone shed any more light on the 80A/150A alternator?
Are these two different models which are fitted to the 2.2tdci engine? Also interested to know how one would identify which alternator is on their vehicle, and whether a upgrade is a worthwhile modification.
My goal is to have a removable 3rd battery which will be charged by the vehicle's alternator when connected, so seems like Tim's experiment is fairly accurate to what I wish to achieve, and what I am likely to see current wise.
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Ours are delivered with 150a versions
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My first job was: Apprentice Electrical Fitter with NSW Railways. I gave it the flick after four years and went to Art School. You blokes are giving me a memory Haemorrhage. :confused:
