200tdi Disco: CEM oil treatment, loss of power, turbo upgrad

I've always been curious abourt CEM's stuff, just never talked to anyone that has used it.

There is a cleaner called Auto RX that I've used in a Patrol with very good results.
It's been discussed to death on this oil board with generally glowing results, including reports from a couple of oil industry professionals.

It is ester based, and cleans very slowly, dissolving the sludge, carbon etc over about 3000km so that there is no chance of great chunks dislodging and blocking passageways.

A bloke in Melbourne imports it, but beware, it isn't cheap ! (about $60/bottle, and the Patrol needed 2) but I think it is probably the safest way I've seen to clean an engine internally.

Luckily the Tdi is pretty spotless inside.

Went for a drive the other day( my wife drives the Disco usually) and holly hell, flat out on the freeway to Coolangatta 105kmph, couldn't believe it,it was even going backwards up slight rises in the road, it wasn't blowing smoke just pedal to the floor and nothing more. I sent in a post ages ago about it becoming a slug, changed the filters and checked the water separator and it came good on its own accord.After a lot of helpful suggestions it fixed itself( its a 300TDI)
Came home yesterday from the Gold Coast and it was no better, I have a few hills near home and on one of them (usually 4th gear in the pajero deisel) the disco would only do 30kmph and still struggling.
Frustrating, no heavy 'under load' smoke came out. It felt a fuel problem the turbo was whistling away so it works.
Now Mr Camel Landy talks about fuel pump, I recall a post ages ago where a fuel pump was removed as it wasn't required
Can anyone help with my problem, would it be in the injectors?
Also I will give the CEM a go sound Ok.


John

Quote:

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Originally posted by JohnE

Now Mr Camel Landy talks about fuel pump, I recall a post ages ago where a fuel pump was removed as it wasn't required
John

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could be what your looking for?

http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Foru...light=lift+pump

I'll try to explain....

Under the 4 screws is the mechanism that will adjust the amount of fuel delivered based upon the turbo pressure. If you remove this cover, there is a rubber diaphram (which the pressure acts against) and bolted to the underside of this is a cone.

There is a rod inside the pump that rests on this cone and as the cone moves up and down, so the rod moves in and out. This rod then disappears down inside the pump to adjust the fuel.

It is quite common (especially if used in or around water) for the rod and/or the cone to seize.

The remedy (performed at your own risk!):

1 - Pop the 4 screws off.
2 - Mark the location/orientation of the diaphram vs pump housing. Peel up & see if it's free moving. If not, that's problem 1! If it's stuck, apply liberal amounts of WD40. Next, we need to get access to the "Rod".
3 - Mark & remove the throttle linkage.
4 - Behind this you should find a 5mm allen key bolt. Remove this and you should now have access to the other side of the rod.

Use the 5mm allen key & poke it into the hole! If everything is working properly, you should be able to feel the allen key move out as you lift the diaphram/cone. Ultimately, you should be able to just pop the cone straight out.

If not, keep attacking it with WD40 until it frees up with you moving the cone up and down while using the allen key to keep pushing the rod back in. Eventually, the cone should pop out.

Once out, grease up the cone & re-assemble.

Notes on assembly:
1 - Before you put the cone back in, make sure the rod is pushed back into place otherwise it will prevent the cone from being inserted. Just use the 5mm allen key to push it back in (you can see it poking out if you shine a torch down).
2 - If you forget to mark the diaphram location, you should be able to align from the grove that has been worn in the cone.
3 - When you fire the engine up for the first time, if the idle speed is wrong, you've put the throttle linkage back in the wrong position. Remove and put back on the next spline around.
4 - When you go on a road test, it will be sluggish for the first 30 seconds while it clears everything out but it should then jump into life.

HTH

Mark.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by JohnE
Went for a drive the other day( my wife drives the Disco usually) and holly hell, flat out on the freeway to Coolangatta 105kmph, couldn't believe it,it was even going backwards up slight rises in the road, it wasn't blowing smoke just pedal to the floor and nothing more. I sent in a post ages ago about it becoming a slug, changed the filters and checked the water separator and it came good on its own accord.After a lot of helpful suggestions it fixed itself( its a 300TDI)
Came home yesterday from the Gold Coast and it was no better, I have a few hills near home and on one of them (usually 4th gear in the pajero deisel) the disco would only do 30kmph and still struggling.
Frustrating, no heavy 'under load' smoke came out. It felt a fuel problem the turbo was whistling away so it works.
Now Mr Camel Landy talks about fuel pump, I recall a post ages ago where a fuel pump was removed as it wasn't required
Can anyone help with my problem, would it be in the injectors?
Also I will give the CEM a go sound Ok.


John

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Nah... Don't remove the pump. It's the upper working of that have probably seized.

If it is seized, you won't get any smoke as effectively the heavier the load, the leaner the burn. This is because the pump isn't delivering any extra fuel for the increased turbo pressure.

We've seen the problem quite a bit here where TDi Landys have been used a lot off-road. They become "gutless wonders".

I've done the procedure I mentioned on a few vehicles now (mainly ex-Camels) and the transformation is amazing!!!

HTH

Mark.

Note.... This isn't any "Tuning" or performance increase. All you're doing is freeing it up so it can work how it used to.

Mark.

thank you for your replies, Mr Camel. It appears that this may have been the problem all along. I'll give it a go tomorrow when the sun is out.
As far as off road water crossings go, haven't done any of those, but I am a great fan of cans of degreaser, no matter how hard I try i can't stop those oil leaks so the engine gets a wash every couple of months. It now appears I am the culprit.


john

Before you launch into it, you might want to see if you can find a schematic of the internals of the pump on the web as this might help you visualise what you're doing.

Have fun.... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Mark

Well the sun was out yesterday and I had a fiddle, got the screws off and there was a heap of oil above the diaphram, dirty sump oil. Cleaned it up and then the diaphram and cone came out quite easily, were well lubricated , it looked as if i had just come from the manufacturers.
Whats the knurled thing around the hole for?
Couldn't find a schematic on the system but found something else will put a separate post for it.
I put it all back together and tracked back the boost line and around the turbo and lines, then found a hole in the underside of the turbo to intercooler angled connection. The rubber thing. I am assuming little or no boost pressure on the line won't let the fuel thing add the extra fuel. Will get that replaced and see what happens. Now the oil , perhaps the turbo bearings.seals are shot.

john

Won't start up a separate one.
I thought I found something good when looking for injector pump details, it was about 'Zeus' timing gears to replace belts, etc. But read in another post they have been known to fail, but then don't timing belts. Do the same, had one go on me in my pajero, new/recon motor and broken belt, five broken rockers, and bent bits. Lucky it was under warranty.

Anyway the Zeus thing sounded good.
now back to the landrover.

john