How to compression test a 300tdi

:):)No worries Deano and Dave. Mr Supermechanic here. Done the Timing belt. Just got to clean old gasket and fit the seal, Harmonic Balancer etc. I have a few hours spare so I might just rip the transmission apart and give it a full recondioning job. hahahahahahahahaha

The story of the head

I went to see the local Diesel bloke again and explained the 'valve down measurement' problem. He says all is ok, but he seemed a little embarrassed and annoyed. I think he made a boo boo, but doesn't want to admit it. I was going to throw it out but he says he will grind the valves (6 needed) as I requested at a cost of $15 per valve. In his annoyed state, he tells me he cant do it until next week sometime. I said ok, see ya next week. The way I see it is that I have spent $285 + head gasket ($58), so I will spend another $90 and see how the head goes.
In the meantime I will drag the head off the other D1, get it checked out and keep it as a spare in case of head failure again. Thats my plan guys. Now its head down and ass up again and finish the Timing belt job as its Friday and tonight its time for a few scotch and coke. See ya - Gerry:D:D

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Originally Posted by wedgetail37

:):)No worries Deano and Dave. Mr Supermechanic here. Done the Timing belt. Just got to clean old gasket and fit the seal, Harmonic Balancer etc. I have a few hours spare so I might just rip the transmission apart and give it a full recondioning job. hahahahahahahahaha

The story of the head

I went to see the local Diesel bloke again and explained the 'valve down measurement' problem. He says all is ok, but he seemed a little embarrassed and annoyed. I think he made a boo boo, but doesn't want to admit it. I was going to throw it out but he says he will grind the valves (6 needed) as I requested at a cost of $15 per valve. In his annoyed state, he tells me he cant do it until next week sometime. I said ok, see ya next week. The way I see it is that I have spent $285 + head gasket ($58), so I will spend another $90 and see how the head goes.
In the meantime I will drag the head off the other D1, get it checked out and keep it as a spare in case of head failure again. Thats my plan guys. Now its head down and ass up again and finish the Timing belt job as its Friday and tonight its time for a few scotch and coke. See ya - Gerry:D:D

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on your headbolts....

you can reuse them 5 times, if you're unsure I recommend not reusing them.

If I keep the history of the vehicle I will only use the head bolts 3 times before I replace them as that leaves you one for a field replacement and one up your sleeve.

If you are replacing a timing belt (or chain) even if you have all of the timing pins I still reccomend paint penning and match ing the old belt/chain to the new one. then doing a tooth count.

It saved a WRX engine when an incorrectly labled timign belt had been provided.

no worries - Thanks Dave

:):)Hi guys, just an update. Just have to put in the radiator and hoses. Fill up with water first then coolant if all ok. Hope to get this done today.
Then I have to electrically connect the diesel pump and bleed the fuel system (any tricks I should know about the bleeding?)
Have a beaut day - Gerry:D:D

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Originally Posted by wedgetail37

:):)Hi guys, just an update. Just have to put in the radiator and hoses. Fill up with water first then coolant if all ok. Hope to get this done today.
Then I have to electrically connect the diesel pump and bleed the fuel system (any tricks I should know about the bleeding?)
Have a beaut day - Gerry:D:D

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youve got a few options depending on what tooling you have.

wrap your air gun with rags pke it into the filler and with the supply line to the pump cracked feed it air until the fuel comes out. you can do the same by putting a small 12v pump onto the tank breather and leaving the cap on. as soon as you get the fuel coming out(remembering that there may still be some in the line from the filter to the IP) crack open the filler.

if you havent distrurbed the filter, pump or lines to the IP skip straight to this bit.

crack the #2+3 injector union, set high idle, enable the fuel pump solenoid and crank it till you have fuel spitting out of the unions, if you're lucky it will have started to run on #1+4 nd you can just close the unions and it should settle to high idle. ocne you have fuel spittng at the unions of #2+3 close them, set max RPMS and crank it till it starts, then modulat the throttle down while trying to maintain at least 1500 RPM. once you have a stable 1500 rpm let it drop back to idle.

bleed complete.

if you have an electric fuel pump, I just enable the fuel pump, wait till it loads up and then hold it pinned and crank it till it starts.

Pro Tip.

if you are changing the oil and filter on a tdi, and need to bleed from crack all the injectors and enable the fuel injector pump. crank it till the oil pressire light goes out then seal up the injectors. you should get a restart on the first go if you had fuel at the injector pump inlet when you started cranking.

:):)Got the Beast (D1) running and all was well .......... for 3 minutes!!
Oil ****ed out somewhere near the front left of the motor behind the aircon about head/block height:eek:. Could not see where exactly, but it was under great pressure. I think from the head gasket. Made a hell of a mess of my driveway!! So I took the head off again and will now remove the head from my spare D1 and put that on.

I know 120% that i torqued the head down exactly correctly. I bought a torque wrench and an angle meter to do the job. I could see the gasket in that area was wet with oil. Thats enough with that head. Out it goes!! All good fun. have a great day guys. See ya - Gerry:D:D

Its not worth using a used head even if you know its history.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

Its not worth using a used head even if you know its history.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

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Second that!

Sent from my GT-S7562L using AULRO mobile app

:):)Hi guys and thank you all for your help. I should be right now, as I know what to do and how to do it. You all have a beaut day and I hope all ya Chooks turn into Emus and lay bloody big eggs for ya Brekky. See ya and thanks again - Gerry (wedgetail37):D:D

:):):)Latest update guys.

After me being off the road for a few weeks due to Pneumonia, I now have my Beast running. But here Is a post i just posted in 'Technical Chatter"

:wasntme: Hi guys, I am back again after finally getting my D1 on the road after overheating and stuffing up the head. I have put another head on the Beast. Done the Timing belt and bearings in kit, new water pump, Thermostat, New expansion tank cap Gaskets etc etc. Thanks to the help from you guys I can eventually drive my D1. BUT, I have obviously done something wrong. This is what happens:

When I rev the motor whist parked, all seems well. When I drive there is a loud whistling type noise when I accelerate. Once I reach the speed I want and am not accelerating the noise almost disappears. What do you guys reckon I might have done?? In anticipation, thank you. :D:D;):D