Thread: Japanese 4cyl

Rich ... don't do it mate ... like a well known landy surgeon told me "The landy will simply reject the jap hart .. and die!!" :wink:

Never heard of it being done. Won't achieve much difference from the landy motor as it's a 2litre shifting 1.5t around. Performance will be very uninspiring.

If you want a jap fuel injected 4cyl motor in your landy why not try a CA18DET ? $1700 for a front cut, bit more for a custom transfer to gearbox setup. Only problem then will be keeping your licence.

Are you using the designa chasis? or adding the mounts yourself?

Are you wanting to keep a 4cyl?
SR20DET? 8)

Why not something like a Commodore V6 - not to long, heaps of power (better than the stock rover 8) not to bad on fuel, EFI & CHEEP.

They will bolt up to heaps of gearboxes as well.

Try Castlemain rod shop, Marks 4x4, Dellows Automotive and others.

Dave.

Originally posted by DaveS3
Are you using the designa chasis? or adding the mounts yourself?

Are you wanting to keep a 4cyl?
SR20DET? 8)

Why not something like a Commodore V6 - not to long, heaps of power (better than the stock rover 8) not to bad on fuel, EFI & CHEEP.

They will bolt up to heaps of gearboxes as well.

Try Castlemain rod shop, Marks 4x4, Dellows Automotive and others.

Dave.

Yea that's the way you fix Hiluxs. A v6 Holden with Hilux 5speed and transfer or the Turbo 700 auto and hilux trans in a hibrid would work well I reckon.

For increased performance on a 2.25, why not do some cheap & standard things before complicating the whole thing with an EFI. I have seen EFI / ECU systems for 2.25's on the internet, at about $5K 8O ouch :!: :!:

If you look back in this forum, you'll note some improvements I made to my 2.25 3MBR Petrol.

1. Pirhana Electronic Ignition - for reliability, not power.

2. 8:1 Compression head. I would have shaved it to 9:1 and ported it, but given that it had been repaired, I didn't want to spend too much money on it.

3. Cam Regrind. The inlet and exhaust valves all open 5 degrees sooner and close 5 degrees later than standard. This has allowed the motor to breathe a lot easier and produce more power.

4. Extractors & larger bore exhaust. This again helps with the expiration side of engine breathing. I think the standard exhaust manifold is pretty good on the 2.25, I just fitted the extractors because they were free at the time and saved me the hassle of continually loosening manifold bolts (at the pipe end).

These imrovements have added quite a bit of power. (motor usually runs on LPG).

5. I believe the Weber 32/36 DGV carby goes really well to help with the inspiration side of engine breathing. I think the Zenith moves about 130cfm and the Weber about 190cfm. I found a formula once and calculated that the 2.25 needs about 160cfm for maximum breathing. The Weber 32.36 DGV requires a modified inlet manifold. I hope to do this next and use a RR cylindrical air cleaner for better straight through air flow (less bends in the air intake). I got a 15% increase in economy with a hi-clone on the 3.5EFI RR, so I may take the hi-clone from the RR and try it on the SIII after I make these future improvements before deciding whether to buy one.

These improvements may get you the power & reliability you're after, if you still want EFI, then the head, cam & exhaust improvements will certainly complement the EFI. (I hope :wink: )