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Thread: Freelander Drive Problems

  1. #1
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    Freelander Drive Problems

    Hi,

    Driving along at 110kph in my L series Turbo Diesel Freelander and a slight squeal starts from the front of the car. Within 500 m loud crunching and vibration from the front develops - like a flat tyre.

    On stopping and finding there was no flat tyre and moving the car slowly there is loud thumping and collapsed bearing sounds from somewhere in the drive mechanism. After towing the car home on a trailer, I have run the vehicle in gear up to a speedo speed of 100kph with all four wheels off the ground. With no load there is no thumping or bearing noise. I have discounted the propeller shaft and there is no slack in the front wheel brearings. This leaves the inner CV joints or collapsed bearings in the Intermediate Reduction Box or even the gearbox. I have no experience with landrover CVs but heaps with Subaru CVs and all the bashing and crashing is a lot like a busted inner CV on a Subaru.

    Any ideas, or any known faults in the gearbox or transfer case before I start pulling things apart. I know this is going to get expensive and as I am good at pulling things apart this will save costs when I have to pay to have someone to possibly rebuild the gearbox or transfer case.

    Interestingly whatever the problem, there was virtually no warning as I had just driven over 600km the previous day and on the trip I had already covered 100km of my journey.

    Garrycol

  2. #2
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    90/110, Disco and Rangies have the same style of CV but the freelander has the same sort as the Subaru

    Sounds like that is the problem
    95 300 Tdi Defender 90
    99 300 Tdi Defender 110
    92 Discovery 200tdi
    50 Series 1 80
    50 Series 1 80


    www.reads4x4.com

  3. #3
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    Check the easy/cheap things first.... E.g. Ali's suggestion of the CV. However, don't be surprised if it's the IRD :!:

    [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]

    Mark.

  4. #4
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    CVs

    Thanks for the info - your are right about the easy things first. The outer CVs are ball and cage like a subaru and available aftermarket or rebuildable but it seems the inners are only availble in Aust from a dealer - very, very, very expensive $800 aud.

    Anyone know if the inners can be reconditioned or sourced aftermarket in Aust.

    Thanks

    Gazz

  5. #5
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    Give Dwane at M.R in Brisbane a call and see if he can get them.

  6. #6
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    If it sounds like it's under middle of the car, suspect the IRD.

    In which part of the country do you live? (So we can point you to an LR specialist.)

    Ron
    Ron B.
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  7. #7
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    Cvs

    Thanks - Shaunp I will definitely do that tomorrow.

    Thanks Ron - I am in Canberra and we only have the dealer and one specialist. I am afraid the dealer is a jokeand the specialist is in my bad books. They have had my Disco a couple of times and haven't been able to fix the problems and have supplied dodgy parts. I am not a mechanic but have had to fix problems the so called specialist couldn't fix. As I said in my original thread I am competent enough to pull things apart with the help of the workshop manual and will sub-contract out the technical bits like rebuilding the IRD. I am hoping it is a CV but like you I suspect the IRD. Most of the noise does come from the left side of the engine but there is some rumblings from the centre also.

    Thanks for your comments guys.

    Gazz

  8. #8
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    I forgot to say that the other thing that will be worth doing is draining the gearbox & IRD oils. Obviously, if you get lumps of metal coming out too then you know where the problem is.

    WRT Common problems, the ratios on the early IRDs are wrong! That's why you get excessive tyre wear and castellation of the tyres. Effectively, the front wheels are running at a slightly different speed to the rears causing them to constantly scrub. 8O This will obviously put an extra strain on the drive train.... To give you an idea of how bad it is, Michelin XPCs will last for 120k+ on a RaRo/Disco but on a Freebee you're lucky if you get 25k.

    The later IRDs (approx 2000MY onwards) have the proper ratios.

    HTH

    Mark.

  9. #9
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    Viscous Coupling and IRD

    Mark and all the rest - thanks for all your comments

    Through your leads I have worked out wht has happened to my car.

    The viscous coupling failed so as I was driving along at 110kph on the freeway, windup developed in the axles and transmission. This led to an overstressed Intermediate Reduction Drive (IRD) unit whih then failed in a big way- I am making an assumption here as I am informed the IRD is weaker than the gearbox.

    There was no warning before failure

    New Cost - viscous coupling around $2800, IRD about $2200 (matched used pair from a 2000 car about $1900)

    My maintenance schedule will now have included - check viscous coupling when doing oil change each 5000km

    I am told neither unit is rebuildable - will start a new thread on this aspect.

    Thanks for everyones help.

    Gazzz

  10. #10
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    Ah... Bugger!

    FWIW - The later IRD is worth it as in the long run it will save you money on your tyre consumption!!! $1900 for a second hand unit is cheaper than we can get here in the UK.

    The IRD is rebuildable but can be a sod when it comes to setting everything up. One of the guys over here did it to his '98 MY Freebee... I'll see if I can find if he did a write up on it.

    HTH

    Mark.

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