Zeus gears anyone

Quote:

---

Originally posted by camel_landy
I thought about it but it works out far cheaper buying the tools and learning how to change the timing belt yourself.

Even if the belt went "ping" in the bush, changing the belt and repairing the damage isn't a drama. Worst case, you'll have to replace some push rods and a couple of rockers which can all be done without removing the head.

I suspect that one of the reasons for past failures is the lack of lubrication in the timing case.

HTH

Mark.

---

I have snapped two belts in my 200 TDi 90 (being a ruff arse and the truck did live in mud) and each time was a full bore. But cost me very little to fix. The push rods on the TDi are the same as on the 2.25 diesel, so are very cheap to replace .This is designed by LR to fail when this happens and save the rest of the engine
Where as a mate of mine had a engine go bang big time with Zeus gears and he had to buy another engine. He now looks back and wishes he had let it with the belt

[. The site 'number one' mentioned is below;


www.rovingtheglobe.com

john[/quote]

thanks John have been racking my brain for this. I lost it when old computer got repaired had to start again with "Favourites" on new computer now I won't lose it this time.

Cheers
Bryce

60k will be fine, 100k or 5/6 yrs is what's recommended.

Mark.[/quote]

A friend of mine following us on a trip to Perth, had changed his belt pre the trip, speedo around the 130,000 (no new belt) the new belt let go at 8,000km, near Esperance, fortunately it was replaced at Land Rover expence as a dealer had fitted it, lucky Paul on this occassion. They are a lot better than back then about 7 years ago, the pully upgrade have fixed this problem I believe.

Quote:

---

Originally posted by RoverOne
the pully upgrade have fixed this problem I believe.

---

No... It was reducing the torque setting on the tensioner that finally solved the problem!!!!!

In support of camel_landy's statement:

http://www.difflock.com/servicing/300tdi-t...elt/index.shtml

23.Tensioning the New Belt

However, the quoted torque to be applied to the tensioning bracket was originally quoted as 15NM plus or minus 7 percent which is around twice the margin of error of Dial Indicating Torque Wrenches. However, Land Rover's latest service bulletin amends this tension to a new lower figure of 11NM"

Also :

LR Technical Bulletin 0008 CDS L8424bu

I thank you... 8)

The higher torque setting was effectively bending things which in turn causes the belt to work itself off!

Mark.

Saw in a LR magazine where a chap in France had converted his to a chain drive. It did not give any details as to how long it had been installed and if any problems, but an interesting conversion

I read somewhere that the prototypes were chain drive, but that the rubber band was used to help reduce NVH when fitted to Discos. How true that is, I have no idea, but if anyone has seen the mess when a chain lets go, (think schrapnel all through the engine) I think I'd opt for the rubber band :wink:

Quote:

---

Originally posted by camel_landy+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(camel_landy)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-RoverOne
the pully upgrade have fixed this problem I believe.

---

No... It was reducing the torque setting on the tensioner that finally solved the problem!!!!![/b][/quote]

No doubt all part of the cure, but back then when mine went at 18,000km (8 months old) they replaced the mounting bracket for the injector pump (old one was supposed to be twisting under load?) then around 39,000km they noticed the dreaded black stuff poking out the inspection hole in timing case cover when it was in for service (early 40,000 was going to Cape York). On this occassion new "improved" pulley kit was supplied under warranty as well as new timing case and to this day no problems, which reminds me I'm due a timing belt change, Thanks.
[b]
<span style="color:darkblue">Technical Informtion Upgrade Sheet # 2G8J dated 12/04/96.

Subject Timing Belt Wear, Issue 2.

Detail: Land Rover will shortly be introducing a redesigned fuel injection pump support bracket together with fitting instructions, this is due to reports being received indicating belt wear.

Note: This bulletin supersedes 13/12/96 as the information in the parts/SRO/procedures sections have been ammended.

Action Required: When excessive timing belt wear has been identified, replace the injection support bracket as detailed in the process below.

Procedure: (I've shortened wording but) Remove pump support bracket, replace with new (ERR6835) + 2 new bolts (FS 108301) torque 22/28nm, make sure sliding bushes contact injector pump bracket, replace timing belt tensioner, fit new belt per workshop manual.</span>
Bryce

Something else I just remembered when talking to Graeme Cooper years back, he told me that 200 TDI, never had that many problems as experienced by 300 TDI vehicles.

The reason being that the 200 pulleys were cast steel and the 300 were pressed :?: . The 200 were more concave and resulted in less ride up and rubbing wherever they rubbed and shredded on the sharper edge of the pressed thingo (on 300TDI) that caused them to shred (it was a while ago he told me and not too technical at this level with all the parts names).

I also heard some where of a chap, taking off the pulleys and honing them to make a deeper V to run the belt more central, sorry can't remeber just where this info came from, maybe read in a UK LR Mag?

Thats all I know about them, what I've been told.

Cheers
Bryce 8)