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Subarus are all wheel drive with an open centre diff. I imagine many think this gives them some handling benefits over a rwd or fwd car on bitumen - suspect the same could be said for the same configuration in a Defender?Quote:
Originally Posted by cafe latte
PS most Tojos don't have a centre diff, unless yours is one of the full time 4wd models?
Is this true and if so what conditions are needed to cause damage?
As Dave said in that video if one tail shaft is spinning and the other stationary you have 5-10 seconds before the centre diff doesnt like you any more.
I would hazard a guess that in your two scenarios you will likely be doing very little damage (particularly the gravel road) with respect to the slipery paddock it would pay to flick the lever across into lock (dont bother stopping just flick it in and out as needed)
What flavour toyota did you have, any of their farm/work vehicles with manual locking front hubs dont have a centre diff, the front shaft is either disengaged from drive or locked in step with the rear shaft.
The point of locking the centre diff when on low traction surfaces is so you dont end up with one wheel drive! at worst youll have two wheel drive.
s
Yes that's the part that wore out
Yes that's the part that wore out
If you mean the centre differential well then I think Dave Ashcroft also summed it up in the video as operator error as opposed to a faulty component or wearing out?
The obvious solution is to fit an ATB - best mod I have ever made to my landies.
Irrespective of knowing that I dont have ****ty shims and fragile spiders to flog the 130 just plainly drives so much better with the limited slip centre diff.
S
I have a hj45 and a 60 series and my bad I was thinking of engaging 4 wheel drive not locking the diff, my bad, I do though have a locking rear diff on the hj60 though. My point is it must be a bad design to kill the central locking diff just by loosing traction. My friend has an 80 series and it is full time 4 wheel drive and he does all sorts of stuff off road without the central diff locked so I cant understand why the Lany one is so fragile.Quote:
Originally Posted by roverrescue
I just cant see the point of having permanent 4x4 that will kill the central diff if you get in the slippery stuff.. Like my locking rear diff it normally got turned on when things started to get slippy not before.
I love my Defender, but this seems mad.
Chris
Because in reality they are not truly permanent 4x4, but constant drive that can have drive distributed to all wheels instead of just 2 as with hubs. Most 4x4s are not even remotely true 4wd, they will only in fact be drive to certain wheels depending on loading and wheel spin even with centre diffs or hubs locked and in high or low 4x4. To get a true 4x4 you need to have all axles locked and that in its own creates other issues.
I am a little concerned with the lock the centre statement as soon as you leave the black top. Many good all weather roads can be as hard and flat as black top. I generally lock mine if I think the terrain may require it or I get wheel spin or TC comes on or if the old girl starts to labour.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cafe latte
Always lock the diff when there is a chance of traction loss.......just do it. That's what Graeme Cooper told me so that's what I do.
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i do half agree with you. it seems like a poor solution. but most people wont encounter severe enough condition to cause the the implosion.Quote:
Originally Posted by cafe latte
traction control should kick in in stop the spinning and save the diff
but then again, on rocky terrain, the traction, spinning, sudden traction will also kill the gears
What about cattle grids, engage diff lock or not?
Chris
The only way you will destroy the T/C is if you have three wheels stopped with one spinning it's head off,when are you going to do that?. Pat