300 TDi crank pulley bolt....

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Originally Posted by Judo

Interesting to hear your thoughts on the new cordless gear. Everyone certainly raves about it being amazing. I've been very reluctant and haven't purchased any due to price. I'm sure one day I'll impulse purchase one, or need to undo a crank nut I suppose! hehe

Glad you got it sorted. As I always think when I buy a new tool - have you spent much more than it would have cost to have a workshop do the work? A timing belt change could be $1000. That's how I justify all my new tools anyway. :D

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When I started this job I was sure I had the tools to do it. Ha ha. But, all the tools I bought will have lots of uses going forward, and the money will be forgotten.
The cordless rattler doesn't take up a lot of space, and it gets a wheel off in about ten seconds.

Good to see you finally had a win :) I just compared specs on that rattle gun and my air 1, My Ingersol Rand 3/4 is rated at 1340 nm at 140 psi (actually its in ft/lbs, but I converted it for comparison ), The Milwaukee 1016 nm.
Cheers Scott

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Originally Posted by schuy1

Good to see you finally had a win :) I just compared specs on that rattle gun and my air 1, My Ingersol Rand 3/4 is rated at 1340 nm at 140 psi (actually its in ft/lbs, but I converted it for comparison ), The Milwaukee 1016 nm.
Cheers Scott

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You're talking serious gear here. IR and CP are both great brands. The tyre services use 'em. Thing is though, there is no way I'll get 140 psi out of the compressors I have here. I reckon 1016 nm out of a cordless tool is pretty good, and I can take it with me!

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Originally Posted by johntins

So, bought a Milwaulkee 18 volt 3/4 drive rattle gun. No contest. Undone in about one second. Wish I'd had it when I was undoing the head bolts... Gunna make changing wheels a snap.

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I wouldn't use the rattle gun to undo the head bolts, you should crack the bolts in order to release tension evenly to avoid warping the head, once cracked (hardest bit I know) use the rattler to undo, Regards Frank.

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Originally Posted by Tank

I wouldn't use the rattle gun to undo the head bolts, you should crack the bolts in order to release tension evenly to avoid warping the head, once cracked (hardest bit I know) use the rattler to undo, Regards Frank.

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I agree.
When I do head bolts I crack them off first, but only undo a bit so there is still tension on them. I then do the next in required order doing the same ie not releasing all the tension. I repeat and it can take me three or more passes to release the complete tension from the head bolts. Probably not required, but this way you are sure you will not warp the head.
Chris

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Originally Posted by schuy1

Good to see you finally had a win :) I just compared specs on that rattle gun and my air 1, My Ingersol Rand 3/4 is rated at 1340 nm at 140 psi (actually its in ft/lbs, but I converted it for comparison ), The Milwaukee 1016 nm.
Cheers Scott

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Depends which milwaukee cordless he got, mine is 1627Nm😈

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Originally Posted by Tank

I wouldn't use the rattle gun to undo the head bolts, you should crack the bolts in order to release tension evenly to avoid warping the head, once cracked (hardest bit I know) use the rattler to undo, Regards Frank.

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The comment was a little tongue in cheek. Having said that, most reconditioners use rattlers for everything on disassembly.

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Originally Posted by johntins

The comment was a little tongue in cheek. Having said that, most reconditioners use rattlers for everything on disassembly.

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Yeh, it's not their engine, Regards Frank.