Coils and Articulation. It does make a BIG difference.

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Originally posted by VladTepes
Regarding articulation.

People noticed on a recent trip that my Defender did not have the articulation of another (300tdi) Defender ute on the trip.

He has the standard springs while I think mine have been replaced somewhere along the way - no doubt in an effort to change the load carrying behaviour.

But where to start to get this problem fixed ?

(Aside from waiting til AFTER I build a new tray for it).

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Sounds like you need to do what I did on the weekend... get em out and look at them. By doing this you can find out the free length, diameter (although you can tell that in situ) and maybe see any markings. If they are land rover they will have colour coding that tells you what they are. However mine had a colour coding that wasn't in the book :oops: :oops:

Quote:

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Originally posted by Captain_Rightfoot+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Captain_Rightfoot)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-VladTepes
Regarding articulation.

People noticed on a recent trip that my Defender did not have the articulation of another (300tdi) Defender ute on the trip.

He has the standard springs while I think mine have been replaced somewhere along the way - no doubt in an effort to change the load carrying behaviour.

But where to start to get this problem fixed ?

(Aside from waiting til AFTER I build a new tray for it).

---

Sounds like you need to do what I did on the weekend... get em out and look at them. By doing this you can find out the free length, diameter (although you can tell that in situ) and maybe see any markings. If they are land rover they will have colour coding that tells you what they are. However mine had a colour coding that wasn't in the book :oops: :oops:[/b][/quote]

What was the colour of yours?
Purple rear??

you MUST try slotted bushes in the front arms.
in those pics the front end is not even flexing before the rear is off the ground. if the front flexed to its limit you would probably move another 10" up the wall. you are right about the front springrate as well, probably a little too harsh as well :oops:
nigel with the hybrig got his springs from browns as well i believe.
maybe you could get standard rate + 2" higher, is this what you are after??
i have gone the 80 series shock and slotted bushes route, if you want i could show you the difference on a ramp at swaggi's or hardcore.
david

its great having so many different opinions if your not confused now there is something wrong maybe its you that is topping out and not the shocks :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

Davids setup worked well when I saw it last. Lift your front towers, slooted bushes and 80series front shocks (Try Halls 4x4 for good secondhand ones at about $80 a pair)
I hate the idea of lowering the mounts, all it does is just change the cycle position. Measure your travel without shocks and get some (from another make, maybe GQ) so suit. That way you will keep your full range of travel, including the uptravel which is way underestimated.

Dave.

Thank you all.
I'll see how i go. as long as the wheels are on the ground then i'll get traction...

i would doubt that the 130 springs are the same as 110's (there are different 110's as well) mine still has factory all round variable rate fronts and standard rate rears. this on a 110 ute. also a 130 has a Higher payload, though this could acount for the inner helper spring on the 130's

Serg

Why not just go this way.... [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

http://disco.bordignons.net/misc/yank%20tanks/15a.jpg

Or even this........FAT LANDY!

http://www.lrm.co.uk/archive/modifie.../fatland01.jpg

i have gone the 80 series shock all round and rangie rear springs all round [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

works fine with mine :wink: