Thread: rebuilding 3.9

Keep the engine stock, the EFI system doesn't like it that much, it will run like crap. Unless you have a aftermarket ECU fitted then do it [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

LPG works okay on these Rangies as well from what I have seen, tuning seems to be the issue. Funnily enough they are all diffrent when it comes to this some work fine and others tend to be more challenging. I'll probably find out for myself when I do convert the next Rangie to LPG [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

Good luck with it.

Trav

welcome!
any engine reco shop can acid dip alloy engine parts, usually around 75bucks for whole motor.
there is a mob arould revesby called strip co who speciallize in stripping and coating.

as for intake mods, dont waste time and money with a port and polish!(polishing is what they did in the 70's, no one does it these days.)
just match port the heads to the intake and exhaust manifolds.
if you enlarge the port sizes you will lose air speed/velocity, that will move your hp and torque curve up high in the rev range. not good for a 4x4.
do a search on here and outerlimits on thor manifolds or pm PhillipA.
is you want to go the $$$$ way.

as for the cam torque is the key! have a talk to dean at tigh cams in brisbane. he used to do all my street and race cams, and they were EXACTLY what i wanted! right seperation right lift ect. and they do regrinds at half the price.

http://www.tighecams.com.au

or out of the box.
http://www.cranecams.com.au/caminfo/rover.htm

phil

Originally posted by discowhite
as for the cam torque is the key! have a talk to dean at tigh cams in brisbane. he used to do all my street and race cams, and they were EXACTLY what i wanted! right seperation right lift ect. and they do regrinds at half the price.

phil

I had a Tighe cam in Aquarangie (93 Rangie 3.9) and they are bloody good cams. Not too badly priced and like you said, and the style I wantyed as well. I'm not farmiliar with lift/duration all that much, I explained to them 'plenty of torque at 2000 rpm for off-road' sort of thing

Someone I knwe did the engine rebui8ld in dad's 88 Rangie and put a largger cam in, crap result. The idling was rough and it had a slight miss in it from then on. I suspect maybe the valve timing was a out but i don't know (didn't do it)

All in all, I like stock for off-road work IMO [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Trav

You want a 310 or AT300 grind , ring Dean and he will put you right. These cams make a big differance, can't wait for the Disco to need a new cam.

Originally posted by shaunp
You want a 310 or AT300 grind , ring Dean and he will put you right. These cams make a big differance, can't wait for the Disco to need a new cam.

What sort of price are u looking at to get these fitted ? Do they give u torque on say hills so u don't have to drop back a gear [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

Matt.

thanks for the info so far.

I'm yet to talk to the likes of Graham Cooper and Performance Landy's ( john Davies) about mods and improvements, It'll be interesting to see who says what.

On the cleaing side, I was reading in one of the old posts where some one soaked their rocker covers in a tub of solvent to clean them up.

Does any one know what the best solvent would be, or should I just degrease and then get them acid dipped professionally ? - any thoughts?

For the clean up, it might first be worth trying a product called 'Citronol' or a spelling like that. My 3.9 was in what sounds like a similar condition to yours and it bought it up like new. Keep it away from plastics though. Natural degreaser that works really well especially on Alloy and galvanised products.

Have fun.

I just had my cam reground by Clive Cams and the bloke there (not surprisingly named Clive) advised me to get a near standard grind (which I did). He said a standard cam is better when running on gas because there is very little overlap when the inlet and exhaust valves are open together which gives better vacuum. I hope he is right.