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Thread: Oil leaking into handbrake drum - can't seem to cure it!

  1. #1
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    Oil leaking into handbrake drum - can't seem to cure it!

    I have a 110 fitted with an LT95 gearbox/transfer box. It has a very similar handbrake set-up to a lot of other Land Rovers. I can't stop oil leaking from the transfer case into the handbrake drum.

    I have changed the seals a couple of times (yes, even the little felt one) and have used various sealants as suggested in some of the threads on this forum. I've checked for play in the output shaft and wear on the flange surface. Everything looks fine. I'm also using quality seals and parts, cleaning everything to surgical standard, lubing the seal and following the workshop manual.

    So far as I can tell, it starts leaking as soon as I put it back together. A couple of weeks of suburban driving, or a good trip on the freeway, and the brake shoes are so well lubricated they won't hold the car at all.

    I would like to take it to a mechanic, but experience suggests that would be a complete waste of time and money (I can produce a mechanical failure just as well as any self proclaimed "specialist").

    So, while I order more seals and break out the tools yet again, does anyone have any idea as to what I might be doing wrong? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Is the breather clear?

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

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    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    Is the breather clear?

    Steve
    Nice thought, but I checked that last time. It's clear, but not what you'd call tasty.

  4. #4
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    you have either the wrong and undersized flange shaft diameter so the seal is not closing up properly.

    you are screwing the seal on installation (yeah, you can even I still manage it sometimes)

    you have an of center seal race so the seal is being "ovaled" while in use

    you have a poorly installed speedy sleeve that is not sealing

    your having a bad run of luck and have a batch of bad seal at your local supplier (had that batch of 1000 seals all without spring tensioners inside them)

    your putting the seal in backwards (Do not laugh, I have seen it)

    it will help if you can identify where the oil is leaking out from, sometimes its not even the seal its a rebuild insert thats leaking past the outside of the seal because it wasnt gooped into place.

    the first and illegal way of esablishing where the leak is coming from is to remove the handbrake drum, shoes and all loose parts, clean it up, leave it sit and if needed take it for a drive.

    when you work out which of the 4 leaks you can potentially have then we can work out how to fix that.

    Fair warning, if you have a Tcase thats got the bearing races off true to the seal race, that can get expensive.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    you have either the wrong and undersized flange shaft diameter so the seal is not closing up properly.

    you are screwing the seal on installation (yeah, you can even I still manage it sometimes)

    you have an of center seal race so the seal is being "ovaled" while in use

    you have a poorly installed speedy sleeve that is not sealing

    your having a bad run of luck and have a batch of bad seal at your local supplier (had that batch of 1000 seals all without spring tensioners inside them)

    your putting the seal in backwards (Do not laugh, I have seen it)

    it will help if you can identify where the oil is leaking out from, sometimes its not even the seal its a rebuild insert thats leaking past the outside of the seal because it wasnt gooped into place.

    the first and illegal way of esablishing where the leak is coming from is to remove the handbrake drum, shoes and all loose parts, clean it up, leave it sit and if needed take it for a drive.

    when you work out which of the 4 leaks you can potentially have then we can work out how to fix that.

    Fair warning, if you have a Tcase thats got the bearing races off true to the seal race, that can get expensive.
    Thanks Dave - plenty of ideas there. Pretty sure I don't have a speedy sleeve. Any idea where I can find the correct flange diameter? Also, while I'm about 99.9% sure I'm putting the seal in the right way around, could you tell me which way it goes (I'd be thrilled to find out if I've got that wrong, as it would be the cheapest solution).

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    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_S View Post
    ....... Also, while I'm about 99.9% sure I'm putting the seal in the right way around, could you tell me which way it goes ...............
    The lip (s) go over the shaft toward the direction from where the fluid may emanate.

    cheers, DL

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    Also, if you had a "directional" seal (one with little ridges on the lip) that was in the wrong orientation it would pump oil out instead of in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    you have either the wrong and undersized flange shaft diameter so the seal is not closing up properly.

    you are screwing the seal on installation (yeah, you can even I still manage it sometimes)

    you have an of center seal race so the seal is being "ovaled" while in use

    you have a poorly installed speedy sleeve that is not sealing

    your having a bad run of luck and have a batch of bad seal at your local supplier (had that batch of 1000 seals all without spring tensioners inside them)

    your putting the seal in backwards (Do not laugh, I have seen it)

    it will help if you can identify where the oil is leaking out from, sometimes its not even the seal its a rebuild insert thats leaking past the outside of the seal because it wasnt gooped into place.

    the first and illegal way of esablishing where the leak is coming from is to remove the handbrake drum, shoes and all loose parts, clean it up, leave it sit and if needed take it for a drive.

    when you work out which of the 4 leaks you can potentially have then we can work out how to fix that.

    Fair warning, if you have a Tcase thats got the bearing races off true to the seal race, that can get expensive.
    What he said, plus, is the T/C over full?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave_S View Post
    I have a 110 fitted with an LT95 gearbox/transfer box. It has a very similar handbrake set-up to a lot of other Land Rovers. I can't stop oil leaking from the transfer case into the handbrake drum.

    I have changed the seals a couple of times (yes, even the little felt one) and have used various sealants as suggested in some of the threads on this forum. I've checked for play in the output shaft and wear on the flange surface. Everything looks fine. I'm also using quality seals and parts, cleaning everything to surgical standard, lubing the seal and following the workshop manual.

    So far as I can tell, it starts leaking as soon as I put it back together. A couple of weeks of suburban driving, or a good trip on the freeway, and the brake shoes are so well lubricated they won't hold the car at all.

    I would like to take it to a mechanic, but experience suggests that would be a complete waste of time and money (I can produce a mechanical failure just as well as any self proclaimed "specialist").

    So, while I order more seals and break out the tools yet again, does anyone have any idea as to what I might be doing wrong? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Have you tried the later double lipped type seal Dave, FTC4939 is the number.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

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