Attempt to rebuild Boge leveller.

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Originally Posted by Homestar

Would they have a jig that holds them upright and is able to actuate them to do this?

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yep, but you dont need it the tiny amount of pressure you put in them for the priming part of the cycle is only to prevent the bladders from being damaged and to give the oil some guidance. If you have to you can do the rest of the work with a hydraulic press and a set of known lengths for things to be. doing it on the vehicle just has it all mated up and lets you set the overall pressure to suit the way you want the boge to handle.

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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

I might be able to stand it up in the press and cycle it through a few actions. I'll try. I need to pull it back apart first and bleed/fill the pump as described.

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you dont need to completely purge and bleed the pumping section ,just get enough oil in it to make it start pumping and provide a good consistant seal around the piston without aerated oil while its trying to get itself sorted out.

A few years ago, I had mine done by those guys in Queensland. It had a weird "honking" noise when it moved up and down and they wanted it returned to look at it. I left it, and last year it dumped its oil out. I've got a used one in there that's been much better!

Anyway, I noticed one of the little filler screws wasn't seated as I was reffiitting the boge .... I touched it with a screwdriver and it sheered straight off .............. sigh, I new the thread was munched right away as I couldn't wind it in or out .... It doesn't seem to be leaking the nitrogen back out ... SO I'm guessing that is good ... If it does, I'll whip it back out and drill the filler plug and fit a new screw.

Anyway, before I return the nitrogen bottle, I thought I better gas up the one off the other car so I have a spare.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1459860388

Lovely, I gave myself a lovely shocker oil shower. If you are going to unscrew the end cap close the filler screw ... or at least point them away from you It released all of it's pressure through the bottom filler screw that I'd left loose.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1459860388

this allowed me to unscrew the top cap without the seal blowing apart. This is how the top seal/bladder should be assembled.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1459860388

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1459860388

and that's why the pressure released through the filler screw. I had twisted the rubber bladder with the end cap tearing it .... sigh .... so this one is now junk. I wonder if this happened because I left the filer plug loose :confused:

Anyway, given this one is now junk. At some point I"ll try to get the cylinder side apart to see what is in there. and see if it can be replaced/repaired.

seeya,
Shane L.

Good on you for having a go! I'd love to do the same thing but, for once, know my limits.

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Originally Posted by Davo

Good on you for having a go! I'd love to do the same thing but, for once, know my limits.

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Oh, somehting I probably should mention. I haven't loaded a caravan or 450kg into the back to check it's operation yet. But it seems to ride a lot better from the back. It used to drop a couple of inches and feel like it bottomed the load leveller out over speed hump. It doesn't do that now ... and feels to ride more smoothly.

I'm betting that's because the lower bladder that provides cushioning is now charged with gas (the top bladder I"m hoping will provide the levelling when it's loaded).

seeya,
Shane L.

I forgot to mention before that it sounded as if you had trouble getting it out of the car. I put a trolley jack under the bottom joint, (so actually under the cast bracket that also holds the A-frame ball joint), loosen both bolts that attach this bracket to the A-frame arms, remove one bolt, (I think the front one - sorry), and then I can lower the jack to take the pressure off the leveller and remove it without any horrible surprises.

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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

and that's why the pressure released through the filler screw. I had twisted the rubber bladder with the end cap tearing it .... sigh .... so this one is now junk. I wonder if this happened because I left the filer plug loose :confused:

Anyway, given this one is now junk. At some point I"ll try to get the cylinder side apart to see what is in there. and see if it can be replaced/repaired.

seeya,
Shane L.

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3 reasons it happens (and this is from generic accumulator experience)

1. it was stuck to the housing when you tried to move it. (lube everything first)
2. the edge of the rubber grabbed the cap as you were screwing it down and developed a tear that then spread (inspect carefully sometimes this happens on disassembly)
3. the top cap turned when you were putting that final little bit more on the cap bolt and tore/cut through the rubber against the housing then blew out when you pressurized it (you dont need to over compress the cap plate against the rubber youve seen yourself just how crappy you can have a seal surface and have it work)

you also dont have to have the exact same diaphragm for the bladder for the leveller to work, a fraction smaller and shorter will work, you just need to compensate for the size loss by adding a little oil so the rubber doesnt get over exerted. Dont be tempted to go oversize the action of the rubber folding and unfolding will cause a crease failure.

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

3 reasons it happens (and this is from generic accumulator experience)

1. it was stuck to the housing when you tried to move it. (lube everything first)
2. the edge of the rubber grabbed the cap as you were screwing it down and developed a tear that then spread (inspect carefully sometimes this happens on disassembly)
3. the top cap turned when you were putting that final little bit more on the cap bolt and tore/cut through the rubber against the housing then blew out when you pressurized it (you dont need to over compress the cap plate against the rubber youve seen yourself just how crappy you can have a seal surface and have it work)

you also dont have to have the exact same diaphragm for the bladder for the leveller to work, a fraction smaller and shorter will work, you just need to compensate for the size loss by adding a little oil so the rubber doesnt get over exerted. Dont be tempted to go oversize the action of the rubber folding and unfolding will cause a crease failure.

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Oh, this is a 2nd boge leveler off the other Rangie. I was only unscrewing the end cap to release all the nitrogen that will have permeated through the diaphragm over the last 25years before I regassed it. I think the end cap just twisted with the cover nut as I unscrewed it splitting the diaphram. I can't think of a way of preventing this.

it's no big deal as I think the other one I regassed seems to be working (well the car seems to be riding better from the back ... I'll hook the caravan up this weekend and see if it levels itself after going for a drive).

Can you buy the diaphragms from somewhere? I'll ask the local hydraulic specialists and see if they look at me like my brains are leaking out of my ears :angel: I need to figure out how to remove the diaphragm first either way!

seeya,
Shane L.

this thread has bothered me a little regarding personal safety.

to work on any stored energy system without first safely releasing the stored energy scares me .

guess you would know my feelings Blknight.....as a retired framey.