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Thread: A stronger Rotoflex possibility.

  1. #1
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    A stronger Rotoflex possibility.

    Quite a while ago I converted my D2 (with a larger lift) from a rotoflex to a uni-jointed rear tailshaft. I did this because I needed the strength for how I was setup with tyres and how I was driving it. Along with the uni-jointed rear tailshaft came some vibrations at about 105+km/h with a regular and a DC rear shaft.



    I have a view to change back to a rotoflex to get rid of the vibrations again but needed a stronger rotoflex - this may be useful for others that have broken rotoflexs but dont want a uni rear tailshaft. I'd seen a lot of road cars now use these, many of them high output engines which got me thinking and finally tonight researching.

    Here is what I've found and but not yet tried.

    Listed below are the specs of the Land Rover rotoflex and that used in some BMW and Holden applications which are 5mm thicker (35mm, LR is 30mm)



    LandRover
    96mmPCD 12mmx6 bolts ID50mm, OD132mm, 30mm wide.
    Discovery 1 & 2

    BMW OE P/N:26112226527
    96mmPCD 12mmx6 bolts ID50mm, OD132mm, 35mm wide.
    M3, M4, Z3, Z4

    Holden OE P/N:92143598, 92148358
    96mmPCD 12mmx6 bolts ID49mm, OD133mm, 35mm wide.
    Commodore VX- VZ Year 2000-2006
    V6 Engine Rear (Manual Trans)
    V8 Engine Front & Rear (Manual & Auto Trans)

    I dont expect the thicker rotoflexs to cause problems with the reach on the centralising spigot or the tailshaft lengths due to the slip joint and I'm not sure re standard bolt lengths.

    Also note, if you're also researching that these parts seem to have different names depending on what it goes in to:
    Rotoflex
    Rubber coupling
    Flex Disc
    Guibo
    Donut
    Driveshaft coupling


    https://www.powertrainindustries.com...olt_circle_dia

    www.hardyspicer.com.au/pdf_files/driveline/b1_catalogue_2014-15lr.pdf

    For the hardest of all there is also the Prothane 7-1655 Which is a bushed aluminium driveline coupler to suit if you could ever find one to buy.

    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  2. #2
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    Nice work Simon! Cheers

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slunnie View Post
    The bushes in this look very much like those in the coupler for the drum in my Case header, which has 6 bolts for the drum and has a spline in the centre for the gearbox shaft. However the bushes don't tolerate much flexing due to having only a small amount of flexible material. I replaced many bushes and couplings due to the bushes being destroyed by a slight run-out of the drum mounting face before replacing the $10K drum during last year's harvest.

    I suspect there would be far too much flex in the D2 to use this style of coupling that's probably OK where there is not much suspension movement.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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  4. #4
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    You're probably right Graeme. That part is from a Pontiac GTO and designed to replace the rotoflex off the gearbox which if like the Commodore goes into a fixed propshaft.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  5. #5
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    With some more searching using GKN part numbers, it seems people have been on to this already!

    Here is the low down, especially for the fans of GKN parts.

    LandRover standard Rotoflex (30mm) GKN P/N:249782

    GKN 35mm Rotoflex to suit GKN P/N:249537.

    To do this the bolts also must be changed from M12x65 to M12x70 with a recommendation of high tensile and zinc plate.

    Apparently, apart from the bolts there are no other problems from what I can read.

    http://forum.landrovernet.com/archiv.../t-166764.html
    http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...-donuts-38013/
    https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rov...warning.82257/
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  6. #6
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    https://discoweb.org/forums/newreply...reply&p=976369
    Quote Originally Posted by listerdiesel View Post
    OK, here are the details of the available parts:

    1) Genuine LR part has 'GKN' '249782' 'GAG1' moulded (molded) into the rubber. It is relatively flexible, you can grip two of the moulded pads and bend the coupling. There are voids in the heavy pads that go all the way through the coupling.

    2) Pattern part, sold by Allmakes, no identifying marks at all, dimensionally similar to the LR part, there are voids in the heavy pads but they are not all the way through. The coupling is almost solid and not able to be bent by hand.

    3) Heavy Duty part, sold on ebay, is made by GKN and has 'GKN' '249537' and 'GAJ1' moulded (molded) into the rubber. It is 5mm thicker than the standard coupling, has no voids at all in the thicker pads and is not able to be bent by hand. The ribs between the pads are increased thickness as well.





    All three have the arrows for marking the bolts, the Allmakes one looks as though they have used an actual coupling to make the mould with, the arrows are not very well defined, while the GKN ones are sharp and clear as you would expect. The heavier coupling requires longer bolts, stock bolts are not long enough to fully engage the locking portion of the nuts. Stock bolts are M12 X 65, you need M12 X 70 to use the heavier coupling. They will just fit in behind the pinion flange.

    Considering how relatively soft the LR part is, I'm not surprised that the heavier duty coupling has lasted so well on my own vehicle, but we do go off-road as such, but do tow a lot.

    My own coupling was checked recently, still solid with no cracks, and I have a spare, so won't be looking to change anything soon.

    The lack of ID on the Allmakes component does suggest a 'Far East' source, but is seems solid enough to do the job.

    Hope this is of some use to anyone looking at spares.

    Peter
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  7. #7
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    Sorry about my ramblings here.

    Ensure the rotoflex is reinstalled in the correct direction - it looks like it has different characteristics or strengths depending on how it is installed.

    The arrows on the sides point to the pinion flange or the tailshaft flange - dont clock everything around by a bolt hole otherwise everything changes, the compression parts of the rotoflex go in to tension and the tension parts go in to compression.

    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  8. #8
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    I honestly dont think a thicker unit will last much longer, its the extra flexing from a big lift and articulating that cause them to split.
    On a stockish vehicle they last for years.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    I honestly dont think a thicker unit will last much longer, its the extra flexing from a big lift and articulating that cause them to split.
    On a stockish vehicle they last for years.
    On a Disco2 the angle through the rotoflex doesn't change much with a lift due to the suspension geometry. Big tyres and care free driving kills them in this case. But if you do have lift they absorb a lot of driveline vibration which a uni joint doesnt do.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  10. #10
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    Yeah forgot how the rear susp works, still the stock roto's do last well.
    I have had a 3" lift in my D1 for 9 years and only went thru 2 roto's before swapping to a uni shaft.

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

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