What are you setting at MM or imperial.
One tenth of an inch is to me a shedload of clearance eg .0.101.
0.5 MM is smaller at 0.019685 or 20 thou and sounds much more likely and shouldn't clunk.
Regards Philip A
Has anyone set up the end float on their 110 rear hubs using a dial indicator. Just finished doing mine and using the specs in the manual of 0.05-0.101 set mine at 0.08 when I put the wheels back and you grab the wheel on top and bottom there seems to be quite a lot of movemnet. first time I have done this using the dial indicator normally just went by feel. Does anyone have any opinions on this.
Cheers Peter
What are you setting at MM or imperial.
One tenth of an inch is to me a shedload of clearance eg .0.101.
0.5 MM is smaller at 0.019685 or 20 thou and sounds much more likely and shouldn't clunk.
Regards Philip A
ok, first why are you setting up with float.
the manual provides for a handful of different settings over the years.
first is .002 to.01 float
second is 0/0 float/preload
third is mount up the bearings and hub nut, tighten to 50nm spin the hub
tighten to 50 nm spin the hub repeat till the nut doesnt move.
back the nut of
tighten to 5nm
install lock washer
install and tighten outer nut to 50nm
fold over lock washer
Fourth is the silly way they went to with the td5 configuration. if you have that turf the spacer and go back to any of the double nut methods above.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
IF you want your bearings to last over corrugated roads use the 0 end float method or the third method. Otherwise the bearings hammer themselves too much. I have found the torque,spin,torque,spin quite good for setup although the 5nm seem to vary in regard to getting min float. I suspect it is to do with the state/age of the bearings and the cage.
the 5nm method on the inner bearing sets a little preload. the bearings should already be in their preload position the inner nut just holds it in place the outer is then doing the work by taking the pressure off of the threads of the inner nut.
IME
that methods the fastest easiest and most reliable method for setting up traditional beam axle landy wheel bearings.
If you're going to run slow and heavy set for a touch of float. If your going to run light and fast set preload.
greased bearings prefer to run with float oil filled dont really care.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Thanks everyone for your answers,
it has helped me make up my mind I will set them up with no end float. have a trip coming up at the end of the month across the Anne Beadell. And I know the corrugations will be fairly bad. So I cant afford any problems happening out there.
Thanks again Cheers Peter
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