injector pump leaking 300TDI

The distributor seal (I think that's what it's called) is the the back of the pump, basicly the casting the injector pipes bolt to has a round sleeve going in to the pump, you can wind it out just far enough the see the seal and stretch a new one over and on. If you go too far I believe the whole lot falls apart!
So if I recall correctly, you take the air cleaner barrel off, and the (lack of) vacuum pump off.. Actually it was the loft pump. I dont have air con.
Injector pipes off. The position of the pump was important, so there is Spring weight on the distributor head as you wind it out, otherwise bad things can happen. Wind out the four bolts carefully (make sure you have a good quality hex socket, they are tight initially and if you strip a head...) until you can just see the seal. Whip it off, the new one will stretch over the distributor head, I wrapped tape on the rough bits. Reverse process it back together. Like I said there's a good tutorial on one of the Vw forums, maybe even on YouTube actually. What I've said is an overview. It wasn't hard job, tough on the lower back:)
Cleanliness is the word of the day.

As everyone said the diesel shop will say the pump has to come off and will require a full overhaul for $1200 plus.. All the videos seem to be of VW set ups and only show the head seal being done with the quantity adjuster off the pump!! Is it possible to let the head out far enough to replace the seal without taking the quantity adjuster off? The new kit has arrived and am ready to give it a go but only want to do the head seal is it possible???? Peter

yes.

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Originally Posted by pjlhat

and only show the head seal being done with the quantity adjuster off the pump!! Is it possible to let the head out far enough to replace the seal without taking the quantity adjuster off?

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If Dave says so, then yes! What is a "quantity adjuster" anyway?

its an electrical version of the boost compensator and the linkage system under the top plate where the throttle plate sits.

you have to take it off on the VW engines as they have a slightly different setup on the pump body. theres also a control built into the head, the main reason you have to strip it down on the VW version is for access and the mount bracket hangs off of the distributer head.

on the TDI(x)00 assuming it has the mod work done (it would be a rare beast that doesnt) there is a bracket that supports the head of the pump that bolts up to the block that you have to remove instead. The bracket was added in an attempt to prevent the pump from coming off axis

if you follow the video thats linked it gives you a very good example of how to make a poorly executed attempt at doing the job that gets there in the end. While it hits all the points theres sequence errors, the most obvious being failing to remove the injector lines before trying to get into everything else.

Plan ahead and be bloody careful the difference between getting this right and having to then rebuild the guts of the pump is only about 2mm.

if you need it and you're doing this work this weekend make sure your work area is well lit and turn the following into numbers, write it down backwards, use it in conjunction with your smart phones camera and MMS capability.

mine for six mine for ate ate nothing for nothing

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

(a)its an electrical version of the boost compensator and the linkage system under the top plate where the throttle plate sits.

(b) mine for six mine for ate ate nothing for nothing

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(a) Thank you.

(b) Very clever. Took me a while but I worked it out in the end...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

(a)its an electrical version of the boost compensator and the linkage system under the top plate where the throttle plate sits.

(b) mine for six mine for ate ate nothing for nothing

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(a) Thank you.

(b) Very clever. Took me a while but I worked it out in the end...

dont be scared to use it and use it early.

an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of "how do I fix this snarfle I just created"

and dont forget that in my book of teaching the page one preface reads

"The only stupid question is the one you think of but dont ask."

Thanks Dave and others for all your help.. The question I now have is if I do not take the Quantity Adjuster out, which I don't want too, how do I ensure that the pump is at the top of the cam placing the guts of the pump under maximum compression and holding everything together while I ease the head off enough to replace the O ring seal??
If I remove the big bolt in the center of the head will I be able to feel when the pump is under max pressure, and can I do that without effecting the adjustment of the pump ?? Peter













nd everything inside under maximum presure

maximum compression inside the pump body occurs at the end of the injection stroke. From memory this is at TDC on the crank. (Id have to look up the pump phasing in the books again so heres the way I do it in the field and this works for most of the VE/DPA style pumps)

the not quite easy way is to pull the injector lines off and then wind the engine over by hand with the ignition on untill fuel beings to exit one of the check valve assemblies on the head of the pump and then go about 5 degrees more on the crank. Its not quite as accurate as doing it with a DTI but its close enough.

The easy way is to whip off the rocker cover and wind the engine over until an inlet valve is just starting to open. and then wind it on another 5 degrees

the proper way

doing it with a DTI involves having a DTI and the right adaptor to measure the plugner lift, IF you dont have that stuff you're boned for choices, If you have that stuff you should already know how to do it.