Anti-seize on ball joint tapers?

^ Yep. Pat

Bit of suggestions both ways, but since they don't need to salt the roads here in winter I'll go with clean/dry on the taper, normal anti-seize on the threaded bit.

Thanks for the replys,

Tim

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tank

Come across a few that had copper-cote (copper grease) and in most cases had a mongrel of a job stopping the taper spinning in it's tapered hole, had to tear off the rubber boot and use vice grips to hold shaft while undoing the nut, esp. if some one has burred the thread trying to knock it out, Regards Frank.

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Always used to stick the jack under them if that happened. Little bit of pressure to push the taper together works wonders.

Personally, I prefer to assemble them dry, the LARC thing was a little extreme. But hey, you put on the uniform you do as you're damn well told...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by johntins

Always used to stick the jack under them if that happened. Little bit of pressure to push the taper together works wonders.

Personally, I prefer to assemble them dry, the LARC thing was a little extreme. But hey, you put on the uniform you do as you're damn well told...

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Me too, the vice grips were one of many ways to stop the taper turning, the whole Idea is for the taper to hold the ball joint shaft stationary in it's taper so the ball on the bottom could do it's job as the pivot point, if the taper can move it will eventually wear out the tapered hole and that can get expensive, Regards Frank.

I only wiped grease on the tapers with a paper towel and never had a problem with them spinning in the hub, installing or dismantling.

The big issue is with the threads in the drag and track links, which do need some serious protection.

DL