Rust Removal Technique

Great tips guys this will be very handy indeed, will start looking for a 200 litre plastic drum.

One thing though, have now stopped eating mollasses :cry:

This could lead to a special section just for tips, easier to look up if under a heading like Rust Killers, rather than scrolling through the threads looking for back dated comments. Obviously Ron has posted a topic before now a second one easier to find under a Tips & Fixes Section. A bit different to a techno question on "how to"...just a thought.

Cheers
Bryce

G'day All,
This may not be the correct thread for my following comment but, I would think that rust prevention would be better than any cure. Living close to Rainbow beach & Fraser Island, rust prevention is paramount in my mind. I have a 2003 Discovery and am now thinking of installing one of the electrical prevention systems. Has anyone had any experience with them [or know of anyone who has]? :?

Cheers.

G'day splinter. This idea was posted mainly with the thought of project vehicles in mind.
It looks like an easy method of cleaning parts that have been around for 30 or so years, god only knowing how many of those sitting in a paddock somewhere.
As for rust prevention, I haven't tried the electronic devices before so don't know how good they would work.
I use LRs patented ongoing rust prevention system (oil leaks for the layman).

Hi All

I have been playing with the rust removal as listed on the link posted by disco95, and it is exelent.

Have had it going in the corner at work for a few days with great sucess.

First tried a totally rusted/frozen machanism off an old stationary motor, and in a couple of days it was cleaned up, all the piviots/joints worked and all of the nuts came undone easly.

Currently we are trying an old garden pruning saw to see how well it comes up, and next on the list is an old very rusted railway spike. (all for fun!)

Very impressed, very easy and cheap to do!

Cheers

Andrew

Quote:

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Originally posted by RoverOne
Great tips guys this will be very handy indeed, will start looking for a 200 litre plastic drum.

One thing though, have now stopped eating mollasses :cry:

This could lead to a special section just for tips, easier to look up if under a heading like Rust Killers, rather than scrolling through the threads looking for back dated comments. Obviously Ron has posted a topic before now a second one easier to find under a Tips & Fixes Section. A bit different to a techno question on "how to"...just a thought.

Cheers
Bryce

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I will PM Vlad to see if he can put a link to this in his Common Threads section.

All,

This topic is now available through a link in the Common Threads section.

Finally got around to trying this trick out.

Had to get at the spare room to do it.

So.

Get a big bit of tarp, just happened to have a few metres of truck side on a roll.
Get out the stage base - 1500x1200.
Tarp into base.
Couple of shotties/weights on the frame to hold the tarp in place when the water is in.
Rubber mat on the floor of the tub so that the towbar doesn't cut a hole and spring a leak.
Took me bloody days hunting around the place for something that rust to act as the cathode.
Stick the hose in and half a kilo of washing soda - I reckon that's to make sure there's enough in the water for conductivity, and of course you can't use salt.
http://www.aulro.com/albums/album333/wide2start.jpg
The stuff on the bottom of the tub is more mud from the inside of the towbar. Who'd've thought I'd already given it a wash?
http://www.aulro.com/albums/album333/wide_start.jpg
Use the good battery charger.
http://www.aulro.com/albums/album333/battery.jpg
Hook it all up and wait for the bubbles.
http://www.aulro.com/albums/album333/cu4_2hr.jpg
Not quite what I expected.
After a couple of hours.
http://www.aulro.com/albums/album333/cu2_2hr.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/albums/album333/cu_2hr.jpg
After a couple of more hours it was starting to look a little better.
http://www.aulro.com/albums/album333/wide_3hr.jpg
And I can't see any bubbles anymore.
http://www.aulro.com/albums/album333/cu_3hr.jpg

More to come soon.

Cheers
Simon

Looking good!,

I have used this alot over the last couple of months. You will find you need to take out the sacrificial piece fro time to time and clean down the surface. The larger the surface area on the sacrificial, the better they work.

A good thing to use for that is tin cans from the kitchen, good surface area and not a problem to throw away when they get eaten out too much because of good supply!

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally posted by tdi130dualcab
Looking good!,

I have used this alot over the last couple of months. You will find you need to take out the sacrificial piece fro time to time and clean down the surface. The larger the surface area on the sacrificial, the better they work.

A good thing to use for that is tin cans from the kitchen, good surface area and not a problem to throw away when they get eaten out too much because of good supply!

Cheers

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I would have gone the tin cans, but I was worried about galvanising on them. Some do, some don't. I'm not sure what happens to galvanised metal in these things, so thought best not.


Cheers
Simon

Still at it. The water is much murkier now. The whole process is slowing down some, so I reckon the water must need a change every once in a while.

I've also noticed that proximity seems to be important for the sacrificial bit of metal. I suspect that a length of old chain run close around the piece to be cleaned would work wonders.

Also the more DC juice you've got the better.

Cheers
Simon