Thread: Rust Removal Technique

Now that should be fun.

I've been playing about with moving the wires and seeing what happens. I reckon that I might need to shift the negative wire closer to the spot that is most corroded or add more negative contacts.

I put a multimeter across it and was surprised to see how little zap was getting from one to the other.

Cheers
Simon

Over 2 years since the last post.

Well I spotted this thread a couple of days ago & thought I would give the Soda crystals a crack..

I have set up a 60ltr tub in the shed.

I have also set up two postive/sacraficial electrodes & am using a common negative point, putting 12amps (2 x 6amp chargers) into the setup at the moment & it works very well. I am using reo bar bent at a 90deg angle I have attached a couple of pieces of flat plate steel on each bar.
I am setting up a bigger one tommorrow, I have an old kiddies clamshell pool, this will be big enough to get my front leaf springs in, I also have a 30amp charger from work, hope this works as well as the little one.

Seems like a lot of hassle compared with mixing some molasses with water and merely putting the parts in to the solution.

Ron

There was a detailed article and instructions about this in an issue of "Restored Cars" which was reprinted in a later issue. you can probably get a copy from them or find it in their website. DO NOT USE on aluminium parts. They disappear!!!!

now I might be being stupid here.....

whats wrong with using a normal 44 gallon drum with an inner tube around the top to maintain insulation between a piece of dry hardwood with a steel rod over the top that would be the supporting beam?

put it somewhere where if it does start to leak the mix isnt going to hit anything alive (electrical or herbal).

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

now I might be being stupid here.....

whats wrong with using a normal 44 gallon drum with an inner tube around the top to maintain insulation between a piece of dry hardwood with a steel rod over the top that would be the supporting beam?

put it somewhere where if it does start to leak the mix isnt going to hit anything alive (electrical or herbal).

That would work well, but trouble is where to find a 44 Gallon drum.

Originally Posted by tech_support

Gentlemen,

I've also heard of people using molasses to de rust their steel bits and pieces... especially farmers.

The steel needs to be covered in the stuff for a few days/weeks but it comes out looking pretty clean..

Give it a go and see how it fares,

Cheers,
Mick.

I have tried it last year - highly over rated to the point of being an old wives tale - I used it for a bike tank - fully submerged for a week - no real change - the clean metal was a bit brighter but the rusty bits were still rusty.

A smelly waste of time.

Garry

Re the molasses technique. It does work but takes a lonnnggg time. If the bits are very dirty and corroded then months of soaking are indicated. The technique is popular with restorers of stationary engines, tractors and plant. You leave the big grotty old bits in it for months and months. Dave, your idea is good, just make sure nothing touches the drum. I have two open topped 44's here if anyone wants them (Norman Park, Brisbane).