Thread: I finally started- the project is underway!! (with photos)

Ok, an update.

The rest of the body is off, the firewall took some getting off. The bolt securing it to the chassis on the drivers side had rusted into the hole its passed through, its still stuck in the chassis outrigger, no amount of wd40 or bashing is shifting it. (any suggestions, short of cutting the outrigger off and getting a replacement?) i did a bit of damage to the firewall getting it off, but its not bad, and wont be seen when it goes back on. This was all saturday.

Today, the exhaust, motor, transmission and T/C came out to reveal a pretty good chassis. The only problem being the crack i mentioned earlier. Once i strip it i will send it off for sand blasting, and go from there. There might be some other cracks that need patching up.

The motor looks good, has quite few oil leaks, but i was expecting that, apparently there is a problem with the gearbox so it will have to come appart for inspection and i will do the T/C at the same time. The steering set up needs totally rebuilding, the steering box has a 5mm thick layer of crusted oil and dirt protecting it. Photos to come tomorrow hopefully when i download them at school again. Matt

Originally posted by Ace

The rest of the body is off, the firewall took some getting off. The bolt securing it to the chassis on the drivers side had rusted into the hole its passed through, its still stuck in the chassis outrigger, no amount of wd40 or bashing is shifting it. (any suggestions, short of cutting the outrigger off and getting a replacement?) i did a bit of damage to the firewall getting it off, but its not bad, and wont be seen when it goes back on. This was all saturday.
Matt

Have you tried heating it with an Oxy ? Has to be an oxyflame as LPG burner just doesn't make enough heat. Heat both ends of the bolt without heating much of the outrigger. Get the bolt up to "cherry" then drive it out with a 7£b hammer (back of a wood block splitter is okay).... just don't miss with the swing.... don't want to be known as "lightning" do you ? Only way I see you getting that bolt out. Fair performance the other way of cut and paste for the sake of a frozen bolt.


If the cab roof is that bad, thanks but might stick the hardtop back on I have.

Originally posted by Hellspawn+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hellspawn)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Ace

The rest of the body is off, the firewall took some getting off. The bolt securing it to the chassis on the drivers side had rusted into the hole its passed through, its still stuck in the chassis outrigger, no amount of wd40 or bashing is shifting it. (any suggestions, short of cutting the outrigger off and getting a replacement?) i did a bit of damage to the firewall getting it off, but its not bad, and wont be seen when it goes back on. This was all saturday.
Matt

Have you tried heating it with an Oxy ? Has to be an oxyflame as LPG burner just doesn't make enough heat. Heat both ends of the bolt without heating much of the outrigger. Get the bolt up to "cherry" then drive it out with a 7£b hammer (back of a wood block splitter is okay).... just don't miss with the swing.... don't want to be known as "lightning" do you ? Only way I see you getting that bolt out. Fair performance the other way of cut and paste for the sake of a frozen bolt.


If the cab roof is that bad, thanks but might stick the hardtop back on I have.[/b][/quote]

Hi Hellspawn, you are welcome to take the cab if you want, i dont want or need it, so you can see if it is any good. The top is pretty well stuffed, you would need to fibreglass the whole thing and then sand it back to the original shape, as you said its probably not worth it.

I am being very careful because i dont know how well the outrigger is welded on, there appears to be a crack in part of the weld, when i was whacking it over the weekend, it appeared to be bending at the weld. I dont have an oxy yet but i will have to borrow one or something. Matt

Ok, some more photos.

Here is the crack in the front section of the chassis.



The tub removed.







The tub was easy to get off, i just went around undid the bolts and then lifted it off with the engine crane, very easy.

The firewall, well thats a different story, i did some damage, whilst smacking the bottom section with a hammer, its a little beaten, but wont affect the scheme of things.




I have the engine etc out now, so all is left to remove now are the diffs, the suspension and the fuel tank. I havent taken the photos of this yet i did this yesterday, and didnt take the camera to the shed. More next week. Matt

Originally posted by Ace
I am being very careful because i dont know how well the outrigger is welded on, there appears to be a crack in part of the weld, when i was whacking it over the weekend, it appeared to be bending at the weld. I dont have an oxy yet but i will have to borrow one or something. Matt

G'Day Ace

None of the chassis is particularly strong. For the front chassis tear, I'd suggest a mig tack to hold it then plate over. Do both sides of the rail and both rails to match. Will make it that much stronger and less obvious.

One other thing I'll mention is if you're not going to be absolute in restoring to original, cut that gearbox support rail out and weld in a later model one. Later model ones unbolt off the chassis rails, so the gearbox comes out underneath rather having to pull the seatbox out as is the usual process.

Originally posted by Hellspawn+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hellspawn)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Ace
I am being very careful because i dont know how well the outrigger is welded on, there appears to be a crack in part of the weld, when i was whacking it over the weekend, it appeared to be bending at the weld. I dont have an oxy yet but i will have to borrow one or something. Matt

G'Day Ace

None of the chassis is particularly strong. For the front chassis tear, I'd suggest a mig tack to hold it then plate over. Do both sides of the rail and both rails to match. Will make it that much stronger and less obvious.

One other thing I'll mention is if you're not going to be absolute in restoring to original, cut that gearbox support rail out and weld in a later model one. Later model ones unbolt off the chassis rails, so the gearbox comes out underneath rather having to pull the seatbox out as is the usual process.[/b][/quote]

I was planning on something like that, the one under rail under the bell housing has been bashed up that much it was actually touching the housing so it has to go. I might just cut it out as you say. So the series III one bolts in? Matt

Originally posted by Ace

I was planning on something like that, the one under rail under the bell housing has been bashed up that much it was actually touching the housing so it has to go. I might just cut it out as you say. So the series III one bolts in? Matt

No the next rail back is the one I mean, where the gearbox mounts bolt. Someone probably has a photo of what I mean with the setup.

I'm not sure how late series three, mines '75 and it's welded. If that damn 'box of mine comes out again that's one "mod" I'm going to do as I'm fed up with pulling the seatbox out. :roll:

Originally posted by Hellspawn+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hellspawn)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-Ace

I was planning on something like that, the one under rail under the bell housing has been bashed up that much it was actually touching the housing so it has to go. I might just cut it out as you say. So the series III one bolts in? Matt

No the next rail back is the one I mean, where the gearbox mounts bolt. Someone probably has a photo of what I mean with the setup.

I'm not sure how late series three, mines '75 and it's welded. If that damn 'box of mine comes out again that's one "mod" I'm going to do as I'm fed up with pulling the seatbox out. :roll:[/b][/quote]

Well it looks like i have two to do then, because both are pretty knocked about. Matt