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Thread: Rust on block left to exposure

  1. #1
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    Rust on block left to exposure

    Hi all,

    A couple of months ago we bought a 95' 110 with a 300 TDI that supposedly had a blown head.

    A long story short, the mechanics put a new head on it that only lasted a fortnight before over heating enough to cook bacon on.
    They claim it had a Chem welded crack in the block and sent it back to us on a toe truck in pieces.

    After a couple of days I popped the bonnet to investigate this crack they could apparently visually see, but to my horror I was greeted with the pictures I'll add to this post.

    I need to buy some feeler gauges to know for sure, but just running a finger along the rust that it's very porous.
    I assume this'll make another head attempt pointless?
    Would a shave salvage the block, would it even be worth having to remove the engine to get it done if there may be a crack in the block as well?

    Thanks, any and all advice welcome

    Edit: the photo is too large and I can't edit it on my phone, I hope links are allowed.
    Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

  2. #2
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    Wow sounds pretty unpleasant 😕. Pics? Might have a block if you are interested? Needs overhaul though.

    Jc
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #3
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    I've edited in a link for a pic, hopefully it works.
    I could be interested in your block if ours is buggered. I'm not sure if I'm qualified for rebuilding yours myself though, while I'm always up for just getting into it and learning as I go, my knowledge only goes up to an engine swap so far

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tas View Post
    I've edited in a link for a pic, hopefully it works.
    I could be interested in your block if ours is buggered. I'm not sure if I'm qualified for rebuilding yours myself though, while I'm always up for just getting into it and learning as I go, my knowledge only goes up to an engine swap so far
    Hard to tell from the fuzzy pic but all i see is some surface rust and nothing that would require a new block.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  5. #5
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    Today I checked it with a new set of feelers and the 0.04mm didn't pass under any section of the block.

    I took some better pictures as well.
    300 TDI Block - Album on Imgur

  6. #6
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    The should be clean enough to see your reflection in and eat off before even thinking about putting a gasket on it , you cant measure accurately with that rust on the surface.
    Fill the bores and other orifices with rags and scrub it with a scotchbrite and WD40 then if required use some emery paper or wet n dry .
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  7. #7
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    Surface rust. No issue. Cleaned up a lot worse than that. But, what about the alleged crack?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #8
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    I've bought some scotch brite today and will start cleaning when I get a day free.

    I'm planning on putting on the block regardless as it's been tested and I know it's fine.
    So as long as I don't screw up the head job, if it's loosing fluids still then I guess we can assume it is a cracked block.

    I haven't got much more info on the supposed block crack for you guys.
    My missus, who was the one dealing with this mess in the beginning, was told by the mechanics after they did the head that the block was cracked and had chem weld in it.
    I and a few others have found this suspicious and a potential scapegoat as from what I understand the only way to be sure it's cracked is to take it out and sonic test it.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tas View Post
    I've bought some scotch brite today and will start cleaning when I get a day free.

    I'm planning on putting on the block regardless as it's been tested and I know it's fine.
    So as long as I don't screw up the head job, if it's loosing fluids still then I guess we can assume it is a cracked block.

    I haven't got much more info on the supposed block crack for you guys.
    My missus, who was the one dealing with this mess in the beginning, was told by the mechanics after they did the head that the block was cracked and had chem weld in it.
    I and a few others have found this suspicious and a potential scapegoat as from what I understand the only way to be sure it's cracked is to take it out and sonic test it.
    I'm not Dave (black knight ), but my opinion here is if you can 'see' a crack in a cast iron block then it's over. Maybe some folk can weld it, and maybe they can't. Question is, can YOU see it? Can you take it to an engine rebuilder to test it? I've just done the head gasket in my TDi, and I'm here to tell you that I don't want to do it again. It costs too much. So, test it before you rebuild it, if you are suspicious, and you have the resources. It's a ***** to put it all back together and find you've done it all for nothing.
    My two bob's worth.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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