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Thread: Winch Motor drain hole- Seal or enlarge?

  1. #1
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    Winch Motor drain hole- Seal or enlarge?

    I'm rebuilding my winch which had a gutful of water and rusted. I've painted the interior with a dielectric electric motor and winding paint.

    The Primary failure was due to sticking brushes leading to an intermittant operation, but the root cause was due to the motor having water ingress and rusting the brush holders (amongst other things).

    The electric motor side of the winch has 2 drain ports- when the winch is mounted, one sits at 3 o'clock against the bull bar mount, the other faces 6 o'clock to drain water. In my instance, one or both of these 'breathers' allowed water to enter, and the sediment in the water clogged the bottom drain hole.

    I've got a few options:
    1) Silicone up all breather holes on the winch motor
    2) Enlarge the bottom breather hole so it doesn't clog with sediment (and block the other hole)
    3) Block the factory holes and drill / tap a hole for a grub screw in the motor casing for manual flushing as required.

    Benefit of option 3 would be that I could attach either a breather line to the hole and run it elsewhere if needed, or use it to flush the motor out with water / air as needed.

    Any thoughts what would be most ideal?

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    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  2. #2
    Tombie Guest

    Winch Motor drain hole- Seal or enlarge?

    1. Seal the hole...
    2. Drill and tap the lowest point and fit a pneumatic elbow with push fitting.
    3. Run nylon hose up into engine bay fire wall..
    4. Seal the motor ends and refit to Winch.

  3. #3
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    That was the preferred option, from further reading, it seems common practice with the winch challenge guys.
    If I'm going to that effort, I'd probably also drill a top breather. Even if it is just a grub screw.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  4. #4
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    I've posted about this very issue before; they have 2 drain holes which are used depending on which way the winch is mounted. Most US winch mounts have the bolts downward, and that is the way the winch will be set up from the factory. Most Aus winches are mounted with the bolts forward, and you need to clear the silicon from one hole and put some silicon in the other.
    If you seal the hole that is at 3 o'clock when the winch is mounted in your vehicle, and clear the hole that is at 6 o'clock, you won't have any problems. Sellers and installers seem to be universally ignorant of this.

  5. #5
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    open em both and put in lines to a positive ventilation pump.

    feed that to

    diff housings ,gearbox, tcase winch, dizzy, startermotor. and bell housing while you;re at it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


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  6. #6
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    I think half of the problem with the winch I have (Warn XDC-s) is not the location of the drain holes, but the fact that they are too small and are easily clogged. Once the motor is fastened to the side plate of the winch, the hole is all of 5mm wide and 1mm deep, which easily clogs with mud, silt or anything else that finds its way in there.

    Anyone doing a new winch install should keep an eye on the motor location, as there are 2 long retaining bolts on my model, and 4 holes, allowing it to be rotated 90 degrees to make best use of the drain hole location.
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    open em both and put in lines to a positive ventilation pump.

    feed that to

    diff housings ,gearbox, tcase winch, dizzy, startermotor. and bell housing while you;re at it.
    Interesting concept. So, connect the pump to the breathers I already have, with an extra for the winch? How about connecting them to the vacuum pump ( 300TDi ), or would that be too much of a scavenge?
    ​JayTee

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  8. #8
    austastar's Avatar
    austastar is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    How about connecting them to the vacuum pump ( 300TDi ), or would that be too much of a scavenge?
    Hi,
    That would give you negative pressure, and encourage ingress of water.

    Maybe one of those small fish tank air pumps would provide about the right volume/pressure?
    Cheers



    Sent from my GT-N5110 using AULRO mobile app

  9. #9
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    I use one of those centrifugal mattress inflators.

    when I set it up I tee everything off of the bell housing and leave the bell housing drain open.

    that provides 1-2 Psi normally and when you ford as the water level comes up the back pressure increases raising the pressure slightly.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by austastar View Post
    Hi,
    That would give you negative pressure, and encourage ingress of water.

    Maybe one of those small fish tank air pumps would provide about the right volume/pressure?
    Cheers



    Sent from my GT-N5110 using AULRO mobile app
    Gotcha. Head not on properly yet.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

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