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Yes, but isn't your wet cell starting battery vented through the floor to the outside?Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigE
I switched from wet cells to sealed AGMs because they seem to last longer and can be mounted on their sides without spilling.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kelvo
I've been running one of the 130ah ones in the County for about 4 years as an aux/winch/jumpstart battery. Doesn't get daily use and sits around a bit but that battery is always good to go even when the start battery is getting a bit slow to start from self discharge.
We also use them on trolleys at work to run semi-mobile printers in the warehouse. They see regular (almost daily) deep discharge. Warranty I think is now up to 36M. We have had a few warranty claims which isn't surprising but never had one knocked back for replacement within the warranty period.
Warranty period has progressively gone up from 12M warranty about 5 years ago so SSB must be seeing decent life out of them overall.
Just fits east-west in the battery box with the N70 start battery too.
Steve
Why are you not happy with your Optima Blue? You've not shared with us what the failing is so without that gem, it's a bit difficult to suggest options to address the shortfall.
Where is your second battery mounted?
We know a few things about batteries.
- Under bonnet heat shortens their life.
- Wet cell batteries should never be used in the cabin.
- AGM batteries have long recharge times due to limited capacity to accept charge.
- Wet and spiral cell batteries such as the Optima range charge quicker but have less stored energy than AGMs.
So, is your problem that you're parked up for extended periods and the battery runs flat?
Have you got that many electrical devices that the existing battery hasn't got adequate capacity to run them overnight?
Personally, I am going an Optima Blue because the 80Ah is more than enough to run my 50L fridge and LEDs for two days without charging. I rarely stay in the one spot for more than a night or two and the quicker recharge time of the Optima means that with a normal day of driving from point A to B, the battery is fully charged when I pull up for the night.
What is your use?
Yeah,
sorry it will be fitted alongside existing starting battery, as per previous optima. If in the back it would be AGM for sure.
Looking at cutting the curved section out of the floor of the battery box now, so it is flat all the way across and fitting some aluminium checker plate as floor and wall for strength, so both batteries sit flat and will give me another 30-40 mm height, so will allow a decent size battery, length and width are not an issue just height. Will have a play on my next break, if I get one.
Cheers
Craig
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
Hi,
In battery box with starter under seat, defender. never been overly impressed with the Optima, 66AH is not great, but bought it for size and easy fit as was recommended. Mostly lucky to get 24hrs with fridge on low at best when new maybe 36hrs max, previous sealed wet cell deep cycle would run 3-4 days easily. Started losing and not holding charge after about 3 years and has done so for the last 10 months requiring charging often, then about a month ago dropped to 10v and have not been able to revive and hold charge above 10.5v. Sorry 3 years useful life is a joke for such an expensive battery. My last Deep Cycle Sealed battery lasted 6 years and at less than half the price of the Optima, well you do the math. Generally running 60 litre Engel and some LEDs. Mostly since Optima in cooler climates too.
If I do the box mod as mentioned in the last post I will fit a 120-130AH AGM easily so will likely go that way.
You will also be surprised that the Optima does not charge well from the car alternator unless driving plus 4hrs minimum unless you are running a DC to DC charger, which adds a huge cost.
I have been suspecting a parasitic drain, but have not tracked down anything and have had someone else also check and not find anything. Next maybe a alternator rebuild, but that generally still shows plus 14v charging. Parts for that are around $70 so next to eliminate I suppose as it is the original alternator, now 16 years old.
Cheers
Craig
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM
Sorry if you've already answered this, but do you have a good dual battery controller such as a Traxide? If so it should charge the starting battery quickly to 80% and then connect the two and charge the second, although at a slower rate. The Traxide also allows some drawing of the surplus power in the starting battery, but retains enough to start the vehicle. Works for me with an original size Varta starting battery, the Traxide and then a 60 amp fused cable to a $300 Kickass 120Ah AGM in the back, which will run a 35 litre Evakool fridge for at least 3 days.
Hi mate,
Yeah I have a TJM controller that has worked well but getting a bit long in the tooth. While I want a Traxide of if money allows a CTEK set up to allow for solar and DC to DC, but need a decent job first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
Not much point in putting a DC-DC in a vehicle as they usually only work at 20-30 amps while you already have an alternator making at least 80 amps, so I would save my money there. Different story in a van or camper as it can bang up the flow from the trailer plug.
But I would make sure the connection between the batteries is wired for plenty of current flow - mine has 60 amp fuses.
As for solar just buy a regulator - mine is rated to 10 amps - and you are fine without a charger anyway. If your fridge draws say 2 amps and your solar is making 10 amps you are well in front. For example, after running our fridge in the camper all night, our 80 watt folding solar usually has the battery recharged by mid mornng and from then on is just maintaining the charge for as long as the sun keeps shining.
Best wishes for the job hunting too.
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