You are using a 'Measuring Stick' . The only difference being level of 'Tech'... Broom handle with notches, string line, tape measure, solid adjustable metal stick... through to laser beams.
All do the same job.
- Be Brave !!!
You need a piece of brake line about 100mm shorter than the distance between the insides of the rims from side to side. Then you put a piece of bronzing rod inside to slide in and out. You position this on a point on the front of the rim inside to inside and extend the rod out so that it touches both sides. Then, holding it so the rod doesn't move, you move it to the back of the rim at the same height as the front and see the difference. Use this as your measure to adjust the toe.
I use the string method and it works fine for me.
I previously had a threaded steel bar to use but the string is quicker and easier without a hoist.
I use 2 pieces of light timber, about 2/3 of the track width. Overlap them and push them out against the inside of the sidewalls forward of the rim. Use a pen to mark a line across the 2 bits of wood. Move to the rear of the wheel and you'll see the difference between the marks. Much easier than a measuring tape.
Steve
1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
1988 120 with rust and potential
1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive
I do the same but with an adjustable tent pole. Extend it out to the inside of the rims at the front. Lock it off. Check at the back. Quick and easy.
Alan
Lots of good ideas in this thread, nearly all of them being tried and tested.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
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