TD5 sticking at 3,000 rpm

Also been reading Jimbob's post and symptoms seen to be very similar, albeit minus a trailer. When I put it on the nanocom for test in neutral, mine seemed to have to work harder to get the same readings for the MAF than the TD5 the nanocom came from, mine read lower at idle also. I have replaced the MAF, but was second hand, I was told it had been tested and was working properly, and so to date have been loathed to pay out for another new one without being sure of the change. I also swapped over MAF's with another member and didn't cure the problem, but I keep coming back to it, it plays on my mind !!!

Will be interested to see what Jimbob says on Monday.

And Sierraferry, re an earlier post that got lost when there were issues with the website, my boost gauge is tapped in between the modulator and the wastegate, so I have to move this to pre-modulator right ?

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Originally Posted by surfingooner

Thank you, would the re-map from Jose have influenced this ? I say this because it was doing same since I got the car, ie pre re-map. Also would the codes be a problem as the car revs happily over 3,000 in neutral ?

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In this case i dont think it's about injector codes though won't hurt to check if you'll ever take off the cover anyway, also the remap shouldn't affect them.... the fuel pressure becomes next suspect, did you ever check the strainer which is under the FPR in the head?

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And Sierraferry, re an earlier post that got lost when there were issues with the website, my boost gauge is tapped in between the modulator and the wastegate, so I have to move this to pre-modulator right ?

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Yes

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Originally Posted by sierrafery

In this case i dont think it's about injector codes though won't hurt to check if you'll ever take off the cover anyway, also the remap shouldn't affect them.... the fuel pressure becomes next suspect, did you ever check the strainer which is under the FPR in the head?


Yes

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thanks for this, ok the strainer will be next, do I need to buy any replacement gaskets to do this ?

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Originally Posted by surfingooner

thanks for this, ok the strainer will be next, do I need to buy any replacement gaskets to do this ?

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Yes a FPR gasket

A couple of weeks have passed and have been pondering yet more, and I keep coming back to the torque converter. Having replaced pretty much everything, and have also been driving a fair bit using the box, and when locked up in 3rd, she flies along, get to 85 and change to 4th and that lovely steam of torque keeps coming.

the guy who owned my LR before me had a very big boat, basically the biggest I have ever seen being towed, he was selling the LR to get a 4.2 Landcruiser.

All still ill work in progress, but if I use a reasonable amount of go from standstill, I will get to 85 without any lock up (90% of driving) Foot down hard and still no lock up till 80, the car will struggle in 3rd at about the 2,750 with very little change in speed, but if I do same in 3rd the standstill to 100 is very different. If I accelerate right and get the lock up in 3rd then she flies. Any hills really exaggerates the problem, all revs and no speed gain.

so reading other posts, at this point I am meant to do a stall test, but will this truly diagnose the problem if the car is 'slipping' when in the higher rev range ? Any further thoughts gratefully received.

Might be worth a call to the ZF specialist in Thomastown and then take them for a spin and see what they think.

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Originally Posted by loanrangie

Might be worth a call to the ZF specialist in Thomastown and then take them for a spin and see what they think.

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Thanks, gave a company a call and receptionist recommends I get it on a diagnosis machine and then they take it for a spin. $100. I did a stall test today and came out at 2,800 which I think is ok, so not sure what to do next. Been doing all driving playing around in 3rd and 4th, sometimes on flat I get well past 80 in 3rd and still the converter does not lock-up. But once it does she goes so well. Very annoying !!

I'd be following up the auto thing. Mine did this intermittently before the auto failed. Engine seemed to be straining to rev harder but couldn't. Revved fine in neutral.

Had a chat with TCT and they can do the equivalent of the Ashcroft for around the $1,000 mark. I have given a number by them for a transmission specialist in Ringwood they recommend to get the current one out and re-fit, they recommend I get the auto serviced at the same time as have 280kms on the clock. So making the call for that tomorrow.

Have to start saving now but at this point think When I'm finally ready do it I will go with the Ashcroft as that comes out at $550 and too good a saving to pass by.

Back to to the point and sure it is something to do with the clutch in the converter that is the problem. The boat it used to pull was huge.

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Originally Posted by surfingooner

Had a chat with TCT and they can do the equivalent of the Ashcroft for around the $1,000 mark. I have given a number by them for a transmission specialist in Ringwood they recommend to get the current one out and re-fit, they recommend I get the auto serviced at the same time as have 280kms on the clock. So making the call for that tomorrow.

Have to start saving now but at this point think When I'm finally ready do it I will go with the Ashcroft as that comes out at $550 and too good a saving to pass by.

Back to to the point and sure it is something to do with the clutch in the converter that is the problem. The boat it used to pull was huge.

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They have a history.. They were seriously underprepared for what the Aus and US market would expect of them. They really need a good cooler if they are towing. The oil capacity is way too low for such hard work. For example, I have a mate who has a 79 Series Toyota, chipped and modded to the max ( Featured on the cover of 4X4 mag Attachment 123163 ) which has the auto out of a Silverado in it. Torque and power like you would not believe. His boat is massive as well. So is his trans cooler.