Driving light suggestions for a D3

Hi folks, thanks for the replies.

Michael2, I will be fitting a second battery but the lights are first cab off the rank for now.

The battery can be fitted with no obvious alterations so it’s a safe install.

The lights are another thing so far, but I’ll work something out and as for the Hella HID’s, not even a consideration. No matter what the amount of light is coming out of them, for a lot less cost I have a far better spread on my RR


Jamo, I saw One_Iota’s pics showing the spread paten of his Lightforce and I’m impressed so at this stage I think they are the front runners and although I have kicked around the idea of a nudge bar, if I was going that way I would go for a full bull bar but they wreck the look of the D3s ( in my opinion )



Right on the money Pedro, but I always go for a good side to side spread paten. Up until probably the last 2 years, I have always covered long distances at night, at high speeds ( slowing down these days, must be age ) and I have never found any advantage for being able to see 40 kilometres down the road in front of me.

As 300 to 400 metres is well and truly a safe breaking distance, thats all I have ever aimed for, but I do like being able to see around corners and both see and blind roos off to either side of the road.

Cheers all.

What happens to 140/170 model Lightforce lights when they get submerged in (muddy) water? Are they waterproof? Best to only mount them on a roofrack?

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Originally posted by spudboy
What happens to 140/170 model Lightforce lights when they get submerged in (muddy) water? Are they waterproof? Best to only mount them on a roofrack?

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Not that hoary chestnut again :wink: 8O https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Submerged (without a breather) when on and hot they will "suck" in water with bad results. :cry: I am told that the reflectors go black 8O

However most drivers don't encounter muddy and wet crossings whilst having having the spots on. After all you shouldn't get that deep without walking it first.

But if that is the nature of your driving then buy the 240's with breathers, mount the smaller jobbies on the roof or buy a submarine :wink:

OK - I'll take that as as 'yes' they can be submerged just so long as they are off (cold).

Are the breathers something you make up yourself? I had a look on the LightForse website, but I can't find anything about the breathers.

Another vote for lightforce, I have the 240's on my Commodore, just brilliant for the driving I do. Rockhampton - Hervey Bay once or twice a week.

On the Rangie I have Cibie's, and have never had any problems with them, and I always thought they were great till I got the Lightforce.

Would not ever waste my money on IPF's again. In fact, I won a set of new IPF's in the rectangle shape. I gave them to a mate free of charge.

Hi maggot4x4, I’m inclined to agree with you about the IPFs. As I posted, I also use Hella 181s which are smaller than the IPFs but are nearly as good a range so why spend so much more for so little an advantage.

A couple of questions for you.

Do you use any filters and how much did you pay for them.

Thanks for the reply and cheers.

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Originally posted by drivesafe
Hi maggot4x4, I’m inclined to agree with you about the IPFs. As I posted, I also use Hella 181s which are smaller than the IPFs but are nearly as good a range so why spend so much more for so little an advantage.

A couple of questions for you.

Do you use any filters and how much did you pay for them.

Thanks for the reply and cheers.

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I am just running the covers that come with them at the moment, but I am thinking about getting the Blue covers as the only downside with the lightforce is big white signs,, they are that bright they can dazzle you. The blue covers are ment to go a long way to fixing that. They light up road signs and cats eye markers to 1500m, which I find great, as the trucks see you coming and dip their lights well in advance of you. They are also good at stopping your eyes from getting tired as you can see very well.

I have the Blitz's so you can rotate the housing to change the pattern of the beam, so have not had the need for a spread beam cover.

If they were going on a 4x4 that is going to see high speed dirt roads, I would go with the XGT's, simply because I think the mount would be less prone to vibration. Lens is identical.

I got them for $380 from a mate, I think they are about $400 retail.

Cheers,

Thanks Maggot4x4, I don’t know about fitting driving lights without a bull bar as Jamo mentioned but I think I will fit the full bar and not a nudge bar.

Does anybody have any ideas of cost for one and who makes it.

I saw a D3 today with a full bull bar and it look pretty good.

Cheers

Hi drivesafe,

Try ARB:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I think it is an improvement https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

It might be worth a chat with TJM to find out where they are at with their version.

Thanks one_iota, I haven’t seen an ARB bull bar in real life yet but from a few pictures that are about, in my opinion, their bull bar changes the appearance of the D3 too much.

The one I saw today was not as obtrusive but the idea is now a no go as the wife has said “no way” so back to square one.

This is a pain in the A, a new 4x4 in the driveway and I can’t play with it.

[size=24]<span style="color:red">NOT HAPPY “JANE”</span>