Thread: Brake fluid

Yep, if there's no fluid leaks.

As the pistons move further out in their respective bores as the pads wear the fluid level drops in the MC reservoir.

so its a dedicated ratio.
I understand there must be enough "room" for all the pistons to be pressed back in-- so the cap doesnt pop off/leak
so the manufacturers mark the res HI LOW to align with fluid in the lines,,

Or crack the bleed nipples when you push the pistons back in, that way you don't push fluid that's potentially been heat cycled too many times back up the lines.
Clean the pistons before you push them back too, I just used to use the cloth back of a piece of emery cloth so it didn't score/scratch and brake cleaner.

I have to do a pad change and bleed when I get back to that place down south.

Had to add brake fluid to 2 RFS cruisers today.pads had worn less than 25% -6000KM-13000Km- and the level was below the min line causing the dash warning light to flicker. the MC reservoir has enough to cope but the min line is 10% down from the top.The second was a drop in to workshop vehicle that I added 150 ml. I had looked at the todays serviced vehicle that I had flushed with 500Ml to check for over heat issue.The fluid was clean as new.

Originally Posted by Davehoos

Had to add brake fluid to 2 RFS cruisers today.pads had worn less than 25% -6000KM-13000Km- and the level was below the min line causing the dash warning light to flicker. the MC reservoir has enough to cope but the min line is 10% down from the top.The second was a drop in to workshop vehicle that I added 150 ml. I had looked at the todays serviced vehicle that I had flushed with 500Ml to check for over heat issue.The fluid was clean as new.

This seemed to be a pretty common thing with the Defender too and pretty damned annoying with the light flashing on and off on the dash, and it wouldn't be at the min mark !
Either kept the MC topped up, or pop the connector off the sensor.

Years ago I had a bit to do with a race car. It had transparent tanks on the M cyl. We fitted new pads and topped the m cyl up to the recommended level, and then we took the pads out and fitted worn to the limit pads. Pump the pedal to push the pads out to meet the disc and then mark the fluid level with a texta. Fit the new pads again and hey presto, we had a very quick way to determine the wear level of the pads.