Thread: Warn XD9000 motor grenade

Replacement motor (Iskra/Mahle) on its way.
I've had the opportunity for remote trip at the end of July come up unexpectedly so just need to get the winch working and move onto the list of other things that need doing before then.
My bar isn't a standard one, and I could see that replacing the winch was likely going to open up a can of worms and absorb time that I can't spare right now.

Steve

Been reading this with great interest, my XD9000 smoked and flashed whilst recovering a mates idiot son and his brain dead mates that decided to go for a wheel whilst the tail end of cyclone Debbie passed through. Not long after I had a little op though, so I haven't got to removing it yet to check it out. Hopefully this weekend I can see what happened. Thanks for the info.

Originally Posted by steveG

Replacement motor (Iskra/Mahle) on its way.
I've had the opportunity for remote trip at the end of July come up unexpectedly so just need to get the winch working and move onto the list of other things that need doing before then.
My bar isn't a standard one, and I could see that replacing the winch was likely going to open up a can of worms and absorb time that I can't spare right now.

Steve

You are upgrading your motor on a well made winch, not downgrading the whole item.
Like putting an ls3 in a county is much better than buying a hilux

New motor arrived - looks good. I'll post some photos and a comparison with the original Warn 4.6HP motor when I get a chance. (Brian - no loose segments and the back of the commutator where the windings attach is wrapped/epoxied from the factory).

Thought I'd better give the gearbox a service before I put the new motor on. Opened it up and it was definitely overdue for one
When I removed the gearbox, the hex drive shaft fell out too
Its meant to stay attached to the brake assy but the circlip that holds the brake together had come out of its groove. The groove is damaged and is only available as a whole brake assembly - so I'm up for a new one of those now too.
Guess it could possibly be a contributing factor in the motor grenading. Normally spooling out works against the brake, but without the brake there's nothing other than a bit of grease friction to stop the line tension from backdriving the motor at high RPM.

As a side note I was reading an overhaul article by one of the 4wd magazines. They said to never put any grease on the outside of the freespool collar (suggested just only silicon spray) - or it makes freespooling very stiff. Explains why this one was always hard work to freespool...

Steve

Some photos of the New Iskra (Mahle) motor.
Note that the connection studs are a different pattern - A and F1 at one end and F2 at the other (Warn is A at one end, F1 + F2 at the other).
Could be a trap for young players.....





Steve

Brushes are only 13mm wide compared to the 19mm width on the original motor (photo shows one of the old brushes sitting beside it for comparison). Not sure how that affects things other than brush life.
Armature is a different winding design - a couple of rows of smaller gauge wire compared to the Warn one row of heavy gauge.







Steve

Good solids motors. Just a little slow (2800rpm) compared tomBow Motors at 5000rpm

A normal recovery shouldn't be rushed.

Brushes are only 13mm wide compared to the 19mm width on the original motor (photo shows one of the old brushes sitting beside it for comparison). Not sure how that affects things other than brush life.
Armature is a different winding design - a couple of rows of smaller gauge wire compared to the Warn one row of heavy gauge.

The so called current density will be higher with a smaller brush, which could lead to a bit more heat, but with modern materials it should not be a problem. Interesting winding design shown there, not sure just how it is done as well before my time. Just as a guess I would say it has to do with the motor being wound to develop the same torque in both directions without leading to sparking on the commutator. Not needed in your application, but the motor is probably designed for several applications.

The banding behind the commutator is epoxied, but not the rest of the windings. On small high speed armatures we used to epoxy the whole of the winding from the commutator back to the core. 2,800 is not high speed, so not a problem. Looks good, I hope it lasts for you, but please clutch it out next time you have to reverse!