Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 29

Thread: Death wobble riddle

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Gosnells WA
    Posts
    376
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Death wobble riddle

    Hi Guys, I'm hoping someone can show me my obvious mistake here as it has me, my local dealer, and my local independent scratching our heads.
    I have a 2011 90 with 118,000kms on it. I have had a steering shimmy on it now for about 18 months. Initially we thought worn out shocks as the tires were scolloping out at the same time.

    Fast forward 18 months and the shimmy is still there between 80-105km/hr. the shimmy is not consistent, sometimes it is very mild and sometimes it is just downright dangerous. In my effort to resolve the issue I have changed/repaired/checked:


    • Shocks - Konis
    • Steering dampener - Pedders
    • Panhard Rod Bushes - Superpro
    • Upper radius arm bushes - superpro
    • lower radius arm bushes - genuine
    • I did a full axle rebuild after the front diff showed signs of failing. Every single bearing and seal was replaced. So were the brake rotors. The swivel pins were preloaded as per the manual. Front diff was changed to Ashcroft ATB.
    • I have replaced the wheels with new wolf tubeless rims and new tires (I have also had them balanced on the studs instead of the centre bore of the rim)
    • I have tried 3 other sets of wheel/tire combinations.
    • We have checked the brake rotor runout with a dial indicator. it is 0.08mm
    • Wheel alignment is at 1mm toe out



    Many of the parts were changed as a matter of cause when the axle was rebuilt as the whole axle was removed and sitting on the bench. The only parts up front that haven't been changed are the track rod ball joints that have done about 50k and feel good, the drag link balljoints which are original but feel fine and the steering box. There is no play in any of the steering linkages and the tail shaft has been removed to eliminate vibrations. The suspension is OEM with 30mm spacers to bring it back up to the correct height with the winch and bullbar.

    I am at a point where I'm changing parts of the sake of changing parts. We tried to change the pitman arm balljoint this evening but failed after we broke the puller trying to remove it. Unfortunately this means I'll have to take the dreaded Ford Ranger to away this weekend

    Shy of ripping the whole front axle out of another vehicle, I'm at a loss on what to do next. If anyone has any ideas, I'd very much appreciate it.

    Cheers

    Ben
    Cheers,

    Ben.

    Team W4 - WEBSITE


  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,509
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Things not mentioned in your list - you may have already checked these and not noted them.

    Swivel preload
    Non-standard suspension geometry such as a lift. This changes the caster angle.
    Oversize tyres and/or non-standard offset
    Steering box or panhard anchor slightly loose on chassis
    Loose wheel bearings
    Bent or cracked chassis outrigger that the radius arms connect to. Check the welds of the tube the arm goes through.
    Wheel balance
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    FNQ
    Posts
    1,723
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Firstly I would disregard the manual for swivel preload .With the wheel off the ground and tierods removed there should be some resistance going from lock to lock not flop around like it probably will. With it back together engine going get someone to give the steering a work out while your under with a light checking for any play in bushes or bolts

    AM

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Safety Bay
    Posts
    8,041
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Get rid of the super pro panhard bush's,only use original.I had the very same issue you have 10 years ago's when I fitted SP bush's,re-fitted original rubber and haven't had a problem since. Pat

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Godwin Beach 4511
    Posts
    20,688
    Total Downloaded
    32.38 MB
    Never had the issue using superpro bushes in panard rods
    2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
    2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi

    "Make the lie big, make it simple, keep saying it, and eventually they will believe it." -- a warning from Adolf Hitler
    "If you don't have a sense of humour, you probably don't have any sense at all!" -- a wise observation by someone else
    'If everyone colludes in believing that war is the norm, nobody will recognize the imperative of peace." -- Anne Deveson
    “What you leave behind is not what is engraved in stone monuments, but what is woven into the lives of others.” - Pericles
    "We can ignore reality, but we cannot ignore the consequences of ignoring reality.” – Ayn Rand
    "The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts." Marcus Aurelius

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Warwick Qld
    Posts
    1,977
    Total Downloaded
    0
    May sound strange (but it IS a Rover thing!), but I found through trial and error, that my D1 would get real bad wobbles on certain bumps/ripples in the road, if the front tyre pressures were too high. Anything over about 30psi (with those particular tyres - Silverstone AT's IIRC) and it was a constant worry. Doesn't seem to be an issue with the current tyres, but they are passenger case, not Light Truck like the others.

    I have also heard of some panhard bushes which only lasted a few thousand k's - possibly the cheaper version of SuperPros, maybe? (Damned Alzheimers!)
    -----
    You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you.
    -----

    1999 Disco TD5 ("Bluey")
    1996 Disco 300 TDi ("Slo-Mo")
    1995 P38A 4.6 HSE ("The Limo")
    1966 No 5 Trailer (ARN 173 075) soon to be camper
    -----

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    FNQ
    Posts
    1,723
    Total Downloaded
    0
    With 35" muds on 25 neg rims 2" lift and superpro bushes allround I can't find any death wobble maybe I should change to rubber With zero caster death wobbles are almost guarenteed , also I would'nt mix rubber with superpro on the same arm

    AM

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Woolgoolga
    Posts
    7,870
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Same, 2 cars fitted with superpro, no issues at all.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Safety Bay
    Posts
    8,041
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I'm only giving my personal experience,I have SP bush's on the vehicle today,except the panhard rod and it drives fine. Pat

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Darwin
    Posts
    1,707
    Total Downloaded
    12.74 MB
    This is from D1 experiences. Factory standard vehicle. You've probably already covered the following.

    Regarding track rod and drag links. Don't simply rely on ball joint to ball joint centre distances (as previous owners or mechanics/tyre shops had). Measure that each ball joint centre is the factory specified distance from the end of the rod itself, then measure overall centre length. Incorrect settings gave scrubbed tyre, worn bearings and constant vibration. When the tyres were new there was no apparent issue, only when the kilometers mounted did the wear become apparent along with vibrations, making you think it must have been a recent adverse event that's caused the problem.

    Front shock rubber worn or securing nut not tightened down enough. Push front left and right corners up and down, noting appearance of any gap between rubbers and washers top and bottom of shock. If you find any gap then renew rubbers or tighten up securing nut. With this issue, hitting a small depression or small hole on tarmac resulted in 3 or 4 violent steering wheel jolts before settling again. Direction was not affected and otherwise on smooth tarmac no issues.

    Steering damper locked each end with paired standard nuts. Nuts wandered off one end. Constant vibrations but no really violent reactions. Replaced paired nuts with single nylon lock nut each end.

    Steering damper failing. Took it off, stretched and compressed, noting inconsistency in mid range. Replaced. Symptom, when driving on tarmac with minor corrugations the steering would vibrate significantly, always in the same stretch of road, smooth tarmac no problem.

    Steering box loose on chassis, one bolt missing. Didn't seem to present any issues, only noticed when changing panhard rubbers.

    On one vehicle I had two of the above issues, mild vibration with occasional violent steering jolts.

    Good luck!

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!